Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am about to replace the turbos on my R33 GTR and i have a choice to make.

I can get R34 N1's through my mechanic for $1495 a piece or i can get GT2860r-7 for $1250 a piece from another retailer.

Which do you think i should go for? I am leaning towards the GT2860's because from what ive read they are the same specs and saving close to $500 is always good.

What are your opinions?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210168-r34-n1s-or-gt2860r-7s/
Share on other sites

I am about to replace the turbos on my R33 GTR and i have a choice to make.

I can get R34 N1's through my mechanic for $1495 a piece or i can get GT2860r-7 for $1250 a piece from another retailer.

Which do you think i should go for? I am leaning towards the GT2860's because from what ive read they are the same specs and saving close to $500 is always good.

What are your opinions?

Cheers

Hi mate,

I've installed GT2860r-5, a slightly larger turbo than N1 on my R34 GTR. Works very well and got turbos for same price as GT2860r-7. Was considering HKS GTSS but got garretts for much cheaper and works very well with a good tune. Check the prices on -5 as they were the same for -7s when I got them some 4-5 months ago. No compromise on lag and responses very well on pretty much anywhere on rev range...........now supporting 360+ rwkw.

Yes they are brand new for that price, im not risking second hand turbos.

I have looked at the -5's and have considered them but im really not looking for huge power, i dont think i will ever go over 300 at the very most. The main reason for me replacing my current turbos is because my original ones have major oil seal leaks and need replacing, i have been saving the money for new turbos for a while so saving 500 odd is really good for me.

Hi mate,

I've installed GT2860r-5, a slightly larger turbo than N1 on my R34 GTR. Works very well and got turbos for same price as GT2860r-7. Was considering HKS GTSS but got garretts for much cheaper and works very well with a good tune. Check the prices on -5 as they were the same for -7s when I got them some 4-5 months ago. No compromise on lag and responses very well on pretty much anywhere on rev range...........now supporting 360+ rwkw.

-5's are 2530 equivs... there is no way they are the same response as factory/-7's/GTSS/R34N1

There most certainly IS a compromise on lag and response compared to the smaller batch

-5's are 2530 equivs... there is no way they are the same response as factory/-7's/GTSS/R34N1

There most certainly IS a compromise on lag and response compared to the smaller batch

Thats what i was lead to believe.

I am after response over overall power. I am not wanting huge power, i mainly just want my car back on the road :)

I think ill go for the -7's it saves me money and i know they will do the job i want.

There is a black GTR I saw on an igition DVD - which isn't coming to mind right now

but its running N1 turbos on a built motor - 1.7 bar saw it 400kw @ all 4

They upgraded to 2860R turbos (not sure whst specs exactly) now and it makes about 424KW @ all 4

anyways just thought I'd throw that in :whistling:

Hi guys.

I have just done my turbos a couple of months ago on my R32 GTR.

I went for the 2860 -7 with the smaller exhaust housing.

I was told that this was a new smaller housing from Garret to try and reduce lag.

Now, don't shoot me for it because I don't know alot about it.

I know one thing. I was running standard GTR turbos with steel wheels and the difference is huge.

I feel that lag is now non existent which makes it for a real good street car.

I must say that I also installed dump pipes, computer and boost controller so obviously some of the improvements are also due to these extra bits.

Anyway, the car drives really well. The response is quite good.

Power wise, I do realise that power figures varies from place to place but to give you an indication of what was achieved with my current setup, the final power figure on what I believe is a safe tune was 280kw at 1.2 bar.

Anyway, this is my results with I am happy with so I thought that I would share it here.

There is a black GTR I saw on an igition DVD - which isn't coming to mind right now

but its running N1 turbos on a built motor - 1.7 bar saw it 400kw @ all 4

They upgraded to 2860R turbos (not sure whst specs exactly) now and it makes about 424KW @ all 4

anyways just thought I'd throw that in

thats rus's and marks car make 427rwkw on a built gt500 block and tomei internals awsome car i would def go with the 2860s you see nothing but good from them...

Edited by johnbarry88

Turbos ordered :D I went for the -7's mainly for the response etc. I am now a little worried after seeing this thread ( http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ga...60-t210071.html ) about my dump pipes. I guess i will find out in a couple of weeks.

Edited by Cooper
thats rus's and marks car make 427rwkw on a built gt500 block and tomei internals awsome car i would def go with the 2860s you see nothing but good from them...

thats the one! fkn machine that thing

inspirational video that you should all watch: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=TPPUMoDmWlk

running N1 turbos and making 400kw @ 1.7bar

-5's are 2530 equivs... there is no way they are the same response as factory/-7's/GTSS/R34N1

There most certainly IS a compromise on lag and response compared to the smaller batch

You never asked if he changed cams ,has adjustable pulleys or has an after market computer.

But yes........power output is larger with the 2530's and lag is greater.

If you are not wishing to change anything else on the car except for Turbo's you have made the right choice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...