Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you don't mind me asking, how loud was the belt before the failure?

Both Adam at JEM and Dave listened to the belt and it sounded good...it was the bolt that failed. Recently another bolt has failed in an engine in Melbourne. Ive re-engineered the set-up now as 15 year old bolts may have a fair bit of fatigue and may have been the cause....not the belt tension.

is it worth replacing the idler bearing bolt then in future builds?

ive designed something a little bit better than that...im just waiting to see the final product from suppliers and ill post it up. If it doesnt work im going to use a high tensile cap bolt with a slightly improved thread length.

but yes as a minimum id recommend fitting new genuine bolts with each bearing and belt kit fitted.

good luck with it. hope you get some good results after some rotten luck. looking forward to seeing what you get.

It can only get better after having an engine let go.

But yes cant wait to get behind the wheel of it. Ill have to learn how to drive it again, im getting used to the power of a 1.5L FWD ;)

Does anyone have a part number for the bolt? Also Dirtgarage let me know if your design works as I am in the process of building my RB26DETT from an R32 and want this done right, read about some bolts failing in the US and it has me quaking in the boots after buying some new Tomei parts.

  • 4 weeks later...

Wow its been a long time.

Engine will be picked up on Sat afternoon. Still waiting on some shiny bits to turn up before we can put the engine in though.

Purchased all oils,plugs and filters today.

In the mean time the car has had the new suspension installed. Will be swapping the Bride seat out for something a little more hugging.

And also got around to putting my HID kit in.

Wow its been a long time.

Engine will be picked up on Sat afternoon. Still waiting on some shiny bits to turn up before we can put the engine in though.

Purchased all oils,plugs and filters today.

this one didn't take long at all 8 weeks including 2 weeks off at xmas ( i normally quote 6 weeks)..the whole drawn out process has been though. I dont know who will be happier at Powercruise...me ripping skids in mine...or you in yours!

Edited by DiRTgarage

I read this whole post last night, started at 2am and fell asleep with the laptop on my stomach. Dave I hope you get to enjoy this weapon for a long time to come once she is back in good health. It sounds like you have the right people involved!

1 + 1 = window

classic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...