Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

car will do around 250km to a full tank

mods

front mount cooler

r34 gtr fuel pump

car runs 10psi

stock computer

what is my problem and what should be normal full economy for a r33 running ten psi ?

anyone think the gtr full pump is not needed and to take it out??

Edited by rich flavour
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210487-r33-bad-fuel-economy/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Well i dont flog it but i guess if i drive off boost it would be better but i dont always drive on boost so it should be better then what it is

there is something wrong i get 350-400km out of a tank with 251rwkw @ 16psi (i boost it abit too) with ebc turn off (runs around 9psi) i can get upto 400-450km out of a tank

get an ecu and tune it

or use a piggyback

what are the advantages off piggy backing the ecu sorry for the silly question but i dont really know that much still learning any way heres a example:

i have a automatic Rb25det four door, 3" exhaust all the way thru coughcough no cat,FMIC,huge K&N pod filter,CAI + DIY heat shield for pod,runnin 7psi,split fire coil pack's and some

other stuff.

with the IMPUL r33 automatic ecu so if i take this out and use microtech LT10s ecu instead i will lose my shift points for automatic and aircon etc something like that anyway

so if i piggy back it with standard impul ecu i will still retain aircon and that?

will it be better that standard? any more info would be great before i go ahed with it guess it will help my fuel econ stop it from runing rich my mechanic said its runnin rich because im

pushing the limit on the IMPUL R33 Automatic ECU because the car can breath so much more air because off the stage1 mods i have noticed that it does not like to go to 10 psi hits

R & R so i left it at 7psi no flat spots aka lag so if i piggy back the IMPUL ecu with the aftermarket ecu then i should be able to sort out my A/F ratios etc.?

If you dont Know off the impul ecu here's a site that will let you know what it does ==> ==>"ABOUT THE IMPUL ECU click me" <== <==

here's the the type off car i got my ecu off

(actually it was SAU member i bought it off lucky if you can find one off these here's the link : ==> ==>"THE CAR THE ECU CAME FROM click me" <== <==

Cheers

Allan.M

Have to agree with paul, it is his ecu. If the car was stock then maybe not, but the ecu he has is not the ecu for the mods he has, esp. front mount and 10psi [how'd you measure this]. I had the same probs, and swapped for a pfc. I reckon the pfc has paid for itself in fuel saved and also gave a much better cleaner power delivery.

Plus, is his ecu stock? In a lot of jap imports the ecu chips are swapped out for no speed limiter/richer fuel units.

Have you popped the cover on your ecu and had a look at the chip etc?

yeh well i havnt checked the ecu for a chip.where could i get a test down so they can single out my problem? also where is the best place to get a pfc or im thinking of running a computer that dont use a afm...

i get 250km~ to a tank and backfire like a motherbollockser, and all ive done is a catback exhaust!

I think its time to check my o2 sensor too, the plugs are relatively new and i just gapped them to .8 but popping didnt change at all.

your an idiot if your warming your car up for 10mins each morning..get in start it idle it for 30secs-1min then drive it just baby it until thermostat opens and yeah...

ive got after market ecu LINK and its got a shit tune and i barely see 180kms per $60 around town and 250kms on highway so think yourself lucky.

time for a decent tune from a brisbane workshop:)

idling doesnt use that much fuel, obviously a bit more from a cold start but not enough to effect your economy that much, unless you only drive very short trips between cold starts.

you dont need to warm your car up for that much anyway, let it idle for 20-30 secs to build up oil pressure then just drive it soft to warm up everything, gearbox diff etc, not just the motor

how does this solve his problem?

what is the point of tring to fix the problem, if you don't know what the problem is. the problem isn't his ecu. and saying it is, is complete bs...

hi michael

whilst i usually avoid cross forum member attacks etc but anyway - given his list of mods and typical fuel economy most GTST guys see

i still think that its his ECU at fault, no where its a case of it just needs a decent tune, a sensor is toast, someone's remapped it to homo settings, or he has a non-supported 02 snsor etc

it could be many many things, but overall one of the essential fucntions of the ECU is fuel injection control and part of that is 02 feedback, which in turn gives you decent fuel economy 300kms+ to a tank.

short of wierd things such as split fuel hoses, loose fuel pumps, wierd filling up tank procedures (ie: him saying a full tank is really 30 liters instead of 50) then i suspect the ECU and tune is the next likely culprit. the recommended action would be to remap it, piggyback it, or change the ecu. if he isnt prepared to do then its needs more debuggin work on the dyno and on the street with a wideband sensor, which just wastes time and $. and besides he will make more power & response with either a remap, piggyback or standalone anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...