Jump to content
SAU Community

Just had my R33 dynod today...


Recommended Posts

Running 12lb boost, LT12 computer - just over 303hp at the wheels !! ;) I am very happy with that.

It is a GTS-t. My mechanic installed an air temp sensor today and change the adjustable cam gear. Went from 264.3rwhp to 303.1 rwhp with just those changes.

It is idling a bit high though. Do the new microtechs cause the car to idle higher than the stock computer? I am idling at about 1000->1200rpm !! I am going to speak to bloke tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

should be able to change the idle via the LT12. The mechanical changes probably effected the idle settings, no major issue to adjust back

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am currently running a 500hp Garret Ball raced Turbo. (but at only 12lb boost)

The only other mods I have are...

Large Front Mount intercooler

LT12 Microtech

Variable cam gear

descent exhaust (but nothing spectacular)

custom dump pipe

Iridium sparks

carbon clean (everyone who gets a carbon clean gains about 5rwkw)

good tune !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, that turbo's just a tad bigger than mine. The biggest difference between your car and mine is the ECU and the cam gear. I think the cam gear has to be the next mod for mine because I can't afford a new ECU :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

carbon clean? where can you get one of these guys done!? :)

yeah, boost is what its ALL about....and cam gears too..hrm! i think im doing okay for the mods i have then.

186rwkw

powerfc

apexi avcr @ 1bar

full exhaust

front mount

stocky turbo...

next mods will be fuel pump, clutch & turbo of some description!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I place in Toowoomba has a carbon clean.

My mates '86 Brock Commodore got 5rwkw. Another guy's skyline got 6rwkw. I don't know what I got as mine was done when I got the new turbo/sparks etc.

186rwkw if pretty damn good for those mods. Youy must have a good tuner as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice results gjb977 !!

Tell me more about this Carbon Clean..

Whats it do?

Where does it go?

How much does it cost?

:)

What does an Ex Cam Gear cost to be installed and tuned (roughly) ? They are quite a cheap mod it seems:

Apexi: $142

HKS: $153

OS Giken: $293

Tomei: $199

Trust: $171

I love these cheap mods with slight power increases, the type of mods that many people skip and jump straight in for the big turbo's etc. (JimX maybe we could order 2 cam gears and have em installed/tuned at the same time/place)

I'm currently at 272 rwhp and confident that with some small mods ($$) I can crack 280 rwhp from my basic setup.

Hey Frankie not bad power for the mods you have :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll get the info re the carbon clean from my mechanic (more like an engineers workshop) and post the info tomorrow. All I know is the solution so that expensive he keeps it in a safe.

He's done so many qick cars it's not funny. (including a 9.6sec Cortina) (mainly does commodores though)

he made the adj cam gear out of my stock gear. (only had one done) - this is alot cheaper than buying 'name' brand ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by gjb977

he made the adj cam gear out of my stock gear. (only had one done) - this is alot cheaper than buying 'name' brand ones.

Interesting... do you know the costs involved to get this done?

The HKS has come down in price by 25% in the last 3mths which I have had my eye on and is looking pretty nice at this stage (both price wise and physically looking).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did ur power fc have much to do with the power??

cos i am looking at getting mine on the dino, with a 12psi full exhaust, front mount and cold air on its way..

but i was looking at a power fc, are they the way to go or not??

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is a before and after. only difference being boost was raised from say 0.7bar to 1.0bar.

its hard to say what difference the powerfc made on top of the boost gain, but when I first installed the FC i remember the torque was raised like 50newtons across the whole rev range.

the car definately felt alot more torquey down low. up top there wasn't that much difference, maybe just under 10rwkw gain?

but it all comes down to the tuner. its hard to go past the FC because of its plug & play features and sydney workshops/tuners are getting alot better at them now (c&v for instance). so there'll be an abundance of knowledge around...

aak.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not quite sure the difference between your car and benm's but shouldn't you be getting more the same kw's as benm. You are nice and lean so what do you think the diiference is as the HPI R34 has also 1 bar and 202rwkw's, i ask as i am about to get my car tuned and expect to get nealy 200rwkw?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unplug ECU. Unplug TPS. Unplug boost pressure sensor. Now, all the wires, placing your ground (black) multimeter lead at the ECU end, measure resistance of the 5V line at the boost sensor plug. Then do the same to the TPS plug. Then do the same for all the other wires that relate to the TPS, or boost sensor.   All of your measurements should be very very low. You're looking to see if wiring is out of wack here.   Secondly, from memory on the R33 (not a neo motor, so I'm assuming an r34) the ground wire for the TPS and boost sensor are NOT equal to ground of the car/battery. IE, DO NOT connect ground of the sensor to the engine/body of car. You'll get a ground loop, and/or potentially screw shit up. In electronics, ground for a circuit, is not necessarily equal to ground of another circuit.   So this leads me to ask, when measuring your 5V, how are you getting 1.5V? Where are your multimeter leads touching for both the red and black lead on the multimeter?   If you're measuring power on the sensor wire, and putting ground on the car chassis or negative battery terminal, that could be all of your issues in "getting 1.5v". Electronics engineers can do some funky stuff with circuits, and when both sensors are on, it's enough laid to alter how the ECU is functioning.
    • Nissan Oz are too busy trying to decide whether we need a Qashqai or Xtrail (whatever the difference is), really not a new issue. At least we can import cars they decided not to directly, at much better value. BTW can I confirm ADM Q50 all have no spare tyre (just goop)? Is that the same in JDM skyline? I'm going to need to sort something, I can't do billions of highway klm without a spare
    • Post up the manual extract and the wiring diagram (seeing as we've got no idea what type of car we're talking about here) to help with decision making. (Also, I'm nowhere near home and my wiring diagrams and manuals). I wouldn't suggest you do what you mentioned above on such a vague description, for a start! Depends on whether the power is from the ECU or the ground is at the ECU.
    • Hi all quick update, so i checked the wiring circuit on TPS / Boost sensor, everything checks out fine. So at this point im really leaning towards 2nd fried boost sensor due to bad ecu maybe? Is there a way or value to check for when ohm testing the boost sensor? Also is there a way to bypass the boost sensor? Thankyou
    • Many thanks for your responses, guys.
×
×
  • Create New...