Jump to content
SAU Community

Over Heating Issues

ducki

By ducki,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

ducki Proficient

ducki

Posted
Posted

Anyone have any overheating issues with their car on these past few days? Mine never had this problem before until a few days ago, my water temp gauge rose to 2/3 of the gauge when it's usually in the middle. So I had to turn off my A/C so that the tempreture can drop back to normal.

I thought my water pump or thermostat was failing since it has never happened in the last 3 years of owning it. But this happened to a friend of mine too so I wasn't sure if it's just the heat or something wrong with my car.

If this is uncommon, then I will take the car out to the mechanic to check. The coolant in my radiator is still full so that wasn't the problem I think.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210583-over-heating-issues/
Share on other sites
some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted (edited)

Also be sure to check your radiator fan for issues, I think thats the source of my overheating issue.

One way to check is get a friend to start the car when its pretty warm. Hold the fan gently, with a finger or similar, do not misinterpret this post to mean shove your hand straight into the fan and see what happens.

If the fan try's to turn with some force then its working.

If its like mine you can hold it with one finger and even after you let it go it takes a while to start spinning again.

Oh, and if you injure yourself by doing this I take no responsibility whatsoever :).

Edited by some_cs_student
GTR_STEALTH Proficient

GTR_STEALTH

Posted
Posted
Also be sure to check your radiator fan for issues, I think thats the source of my overheating issue.

One way to check is get a friend to start the car when its pretty warm. Hold the fan.

If the fan try's to turn with some force then its working.

If its like mine you can hold it with one finger and even after you let it go it takes a while to start spinning again.

I prob wouldn't recommend stickin your hand in there and cranking the car.....

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted
Also be sure to check your radiator fan for issues, I think thats the source of my overheating issue.

One way to check is get a friend to start the car when its pretty warm. Hold the fan.

If the fan try's to turn with some force then its working.

If its like mine you can hold it with one finger and even after you let it go it takes a while to start spinning again.

You can use something else, for Christs sake don't use your hand lol.

Omurru Veteran

Omurru

Posted
Posted

lol, the fans not that hard to hold still when you start the engine, the coupling just slips the same as when the engine is revving which is what keeps the fan at a fairly constant speed. I wouldn't go putting my hand in there when it's already spinning but otherwise.....

Sandeep Community Regular

Sandeep

Posted
Posted

I get my coolant changed once a year, just before summer. If you changed yours 30,000km ago, maybe try a full flush. Always best to start simple. Also get a pressure test done on the system to see if you have any leaks and if you have time pull off your front bar and clean up leaves/crap that's infront of your radiator.

If that doesn't fix it, I'd be looking at the thermostat (replace) or maybe a clogged radiator (flush/rod).

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
lol man do NOT stick your hand in ther

dumbest idea ever

I've done it on 2 different cars, and I'm fine.

I don't mean put your entire hand into the fan, I mean touch the end of the fan blade and start it, if it pulls away from you then its working.

Of course if you're stupid enough to put your entire hand in there then you've misinterpreted my advice.

Also see if its spins after you turn the engine off after its warmed up, my fan spins for a long time...

htial Grand Master

htial

Posted
Posted
Also be sure to check your radiator fan for issues, I think thats the source of my overheating issue.

One way to check is get a friend to start the car when its pretty warm. Hold the fan gently, with a finger or similar, do not misinterpret this post to mean shove your hand straight into the fan and see what happens.

If the fan try's to turn with some force then its working.

If its like mine you can hold it with one finger and even after you let it go it takes a while to start spinning again.

Oh, and if you injure yourself by doing this I take no responsibility whatsoever :P.

LOL... ...try sticking your dick in there... *clacka clacka clack* ;)

ducki Proficient

ducki

Posted
  • Author
Posted

LOL... Well.. you guys can try sticking your dick in there if you want.. but I used a branch and tried to put it in slowly.

It smacked my stick away so I'm assuming that my fan is still strong and it feels like its blowing hard.

Maybe I will try a flush first and see how it goes from there.

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
LOL... Well.. you guys can try sticking your dick in there if you want.. but I used a branch and tried to put it in slowly.

It smacked my stick away so I'm assuming that my fan is still strong and it feels like its blowing hard.

Maybe I will try a flush first and see how it goes from there.

Did you put the branch in while its spinning?

Or did you try putting the stick on it when you started it? If it pushes the stick out from idle when it starts moving then your fine, just don't drop the stick into the fan. lol.

Good luck with fixing the issue.

BRUNSKIGTST Proficient

BRUNSKIGTST

Posted
Posted

you gotta put in fact as well that the jap cars such as skylines werent made for Australian weather also, mechanic told me that one time and that could be one reason for it as well some one correct me if im wrong.

nickcorr Proficient

nickcorr

Posted
Posted

Japanese weather does not hit these one off hot days, but it does get very hot and humid for weeks at a time... That is why Japanese cars have much better cooling systems and air conditioners than Euro cars of the same age.... Most of us own cars that are over 10 years old, you have to expect them to get a bit upset when it gets hot...

Citroen CX aircon was so weak, that for Japanese and Australian markers, twin air conditionsers were fitted.... They added another one in the boot... It is also once of the reasons that the Commodore grew away from the Opel versions they were based on from the VL. Holden needed more space for the larger Aus spec air con units.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...