Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am soon to be changing the spark plugs in my RB25-30DET and read something somewhere about using conductive grease (electrical) underneath the coil packs where they make contact with the cradles and where cradles make contact with the head..The aim of this is to ensure that a strong ground or earth is made..To me this makes sense...

I also though of using it on the contact at the top of the plug BUT...if the grease melts or runs down the plug insulator,,,NOT GOOD

Does anyone use this grease and if so where do you get it from??

BTW the white grease that Jaycar sell is thermal conducting and not necessarily electrical conducting..

I have done a search and couldn't find much info at all. Apologies in advance if there is a thread already but I obviously couldn't find it....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210763-conductive-grease-under-coil-packs/
Share on other sites

fapidy fap, shlock shlock

Hey Paul, Its called non dialectic grease I believe. Chemtron make a battery grease IE. Its not just electrically conductive property, but its preventing surface oxidization ability, that ppl use it for. Ppl use almost any petroleum product (really, they shouldn't be) looking for the effect.

You only need a v.small amount between surfaces to fill micro pits in both surfaces (like heat sink compound) so there shouldn't be enough to run.

If your concerned about getting the best connection possible, spend some time with some quality OFC speaker cable, bag of ring terminals. Crimp then solder. Sand all contact points, use vas on the alloy (around, not between surface's) to prevent corrosion and ground every coil pack bolt to the block & head. You'd want a decent grounding kit (not a $100 jap one, just make it all up yourself) - might as well do it all properally ;)

my 2 cents

Edited by GeeTR
fapidy fap, shlock shlock

Hey Paul, Its called non dialectic grease I believe. Chemtron make a battery grease IE. Its not just electrically conductive property, but its preventing surface oxidization ability, that ppl use it for. Ppl use almost any petroleum product (really, they shouldn't be) looking for the effect.

You only need a v.small amount between surfaces to fill micro pits in both surfaces (like heat sink compound) so there shouldn't be enough to run.

If your concerned about getting the best connection possible, spend some time with some quality OFC speaker cable, bag of ring terminals. Crimp then solder. Sand all contact points, use vas on the alloy (around, not between surface's) to prevent corrosion and ground every coil pack bolt to the block & head. You'd want a decent grounding kit (not a $100 jap one, just make it all up yourself) - might as well do it all properally :)

my 2 cents

Many many thanks for that...I knew there would be something...I might try and fabricate some sort of a grounding bar with the OFC cable soldered to it so it stays neat and tidy...

Any idea who retails that Chemtron battery grease?? I tried a couple of local Auto elecs whose only reply was....Huh??? They are still trying to work out all that new fangled EFI shit...

No worries man :no:

Haha no idea, tis why when i first mentioned it (In your screamer thread I think) I said the Japs seem to use it. V.rare in Oz.

I rem a discussion in a automotive audio forum, where people in the game say, its almost impossible to stop corrosion on battery terminals; I just clean mine often.

As for other interface points, i think instead of trying to get the bleeding edge best conductivity on a few connections, just go overboard, and have MULTIPLE "decent" connections / interfaces :)

If you find some of this shite, do shout out :)

That conductive paste is actually for heat transfer and not electrical conductivity. On older RB's, the grease/paste is put under the ignition module to help remove heat away from it via the heatsink (as the dizzy sits up and away from the block). On these motors, when the module gets hot the car will just cutout/stall while you are driving (should start when cooled). Doing this may kill your coilpacks prematurely as they're going to soak up that heat more efficienty/effectively now. Its the same paste used for computer ecu's. Ive seen it priced from 18$ a tube to 90$. I personally went to pick-a-part, pulled every ignition module (rendering every dizzy useless) and collected up all the grease

Geetr is right about the non-dielectric grease however thats a different paste alltogether. As he said its used to reduce oxidation of the battery (which is generally sped up by poor earths). Grab some cheap earth leads from supercheap and start connecting them up (to clean surfaces!)

Geetr is right about the…

GeeTR is right about everything he says... LoL :D

Your talking about heat sink compound and igniters or transistor unit; a solid state, high amperage switching device. As such, it produces an amount of heat, and will complain if it cant get rid of it. Instead of OEM sinking it to cam valley cover (which IS metal but ISN'T cool) to help with heat, people suspend them on longer threaded bolts, or bolt to the firewall to move stop heat going the other way, from cam cover -> igniter.

We are talking about the coilpacks, which aren't as sensitive to heat, but to a – GROUND. Having that good ground is paramount for a decent electrical field creation and collapse.

Even new leads will get dirty, as I'm not talking about a few mm of untreated lead post, but .001 of a mm.

To clarify…

To prevent corrosion people use almost any petroleum based grease on the terminals, much like filing the surface of galvanized steel before welding, and then spray with rust inhibitor (or just grey paint) after you've welded it… to stop that surface oxidization.

There's enough contact from post to lead clamp that conductivity isn't effected too much.

+1 on the above, is actually being able to find some of the grease that's specifically electrically conductive (in addition to it being a simple barrier to atmospheric oxygen)

Edited by GeeTR

What about your typical antiseize greases - coppercote, nickelcote, they have to be more conductive while offering some protection against corrosion, both these metals are used in the electrical industry as conductors, so mixed with grease should make them a viable and easily obtained item.

They may not have the conductive powers of dielectric grease, but you'd think they would be a viable substitute.

Have to do a search on the net and see if anyone has rated their condustivity properties?

  • 2 months later...

I wouldn't use a conductive grease, as it heats up it would be liable to create a partial circuit away from the circuit required. No matter how well you apply it.

I use senson electroguard http://www.senson.com.au/ grease for protecting contact areas in plugs and sockets, as well as covering terminals. Specifically for marine electronics and electrical equipment, but for anything that might be required to be better protected from corrosion interfering with the reliable of the joint. Great stuff for battery terminals as well.

james.

Edited by heller44

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...