Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

haha. No worries :) That list gets updated everytime I get another form through. We are filling up very quickly :D I get the feeling that the next event will have to be a 2day event.

You missed my question :D

So if you dont send a EOI form in you could miss out on a spot??

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You missed my question :D

So if you dont send a EOI form in you could miss out on a spot??

Sorry about that I did see your question then the phone rang sorry. If we fill up the list then yes you proberly will miss out. You are better off filling it out if you are interested then once the Official Entry Form comes out you decide you are not interested let us know as I am sure we will be able to fill the spot.

CHeers

-Nathan

Sorry about that I did see your question then the phone rang sorry. If we fill up the list then yes you proberly will miss out. You are better off filling it out if you are interested then once the Official Entry Form comes out you decide you are not interested let us know as I am sure we will be able to fill the spot.

CHeers

-Nathan

Thanks for clearing that up..I will send in a form

Would changing class be a problem later on? If I said Street on the EOI form but then want to go in Open class...

haha. No worries :) That list gets updated everytime I get another form through. We are filling up very quickly :D I get the feeling that the next event will have to be a 2day event.

Even better!

Can i send you an EOI form for that one aswel? ;)

It would be nice to see a definitive list of tyres for both classes, no ambiguity,

so clueless people like me know what to source. :D

Wayne? :) I am not in the office but off the top of my head for Clubsprint Class I think your best options will be :

Yokohama - AVS Sport

Bridgestone - RE070A, RE-01R

Falken - RT615, RT215

Federal - 595RS

Toyo - R1R

Michelin - Direzza Sport Z1

Dunlop - Pilot Sport PS2

Have I missed any Andrew?

Cheers

-Nathan

fantastic to see it finally going ahead. Events in other states ftw. Are they all going to be Cams ran events, or is that just becuase cams are Oran Park?

I would like a middle class there where the non-workshop cars with semis can battle it out...

Street

Super Street

Open

something like that would be good to keep in mind for future.

everyone always likes to have an idea in their mind they can at least be competitive in their class...

:down:

I'm entered!!

Should be fun in the little Lotus.

Maybe I can put it in the boot of Loftys BSM GTR.

My BSM GTR is still FOR SALE and can be delivered to its new owner in time for this event :)

EOI sent.

Is it ok to use Yoko AO 48's in the open class.

Also I havbe suggested braking up the awards into capacity and drive as aposed to cylinders and drive. This gives people with a rb20 a chance instad of them bieng up against and R33 or a 300ZX.

Cheers

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...