Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks guys, I triple checked all hoses clamps and the AFM, and everything appeared in good working order. my boost gauge seems to be operating in the normal vacuum and boost levels -20InHg and +14psi .

It does have a BOV. Maybe it needs retensioning?? Might be too soft and opening perhaps?????

Gunna try changing the BOV back to the standard bypass shit valve today and see what happenes then. I noticed on the way to work last nite while driving with the headlights off for a change that it didnt do it as bad!?!?!? Maybe the battery has gone again, but seems to coincidental for that, but will keep it in mind.

Blitz>>All vaccuum hoses check ok. cars due for a service soon(100,000km), and a set of cam gears and a PFC, so might be a job for UAS while they fit , tune and service.

YBSLO4>>It was one of the first vaccuum hoses to be plugged on, as its from the Greddy boost control solenoid thingy

Rob>>All silicon hoses appear to be ok.

When you say it doesn't idle... do you mean it searches? Like it bounces constantly from around 400-800? If so i had the same problem, its caused by a pressure leak. Can happen if you have a leak in your exhaust, a leak in your intake piping or either your O2 or TPS sensors are bung. It will definately be a problem with your cooler piping... the problem is it can also be casued if you have used the factory 90 degree rubber bend or 60 degree rubber bend that if you have pushed the piping into it to far that it overlaps the bend it restricts flow and will cause the same problem. SO basically i know you have checked it but it would pay to remove most of the joins and do it again making sure its 100% sealed and that all pipes are flowing properly. When i found the cause of mine it was because i accidently pushed the piping to far into the rubber bend and it had about 1.5cm gap for air to pass through :S When i fixed it i picked up 2.4psi and saved me a lot of fuel and really really bad lag....

When I had my FMIC fitted my AFM decided to do strange things.

When started there was heaps and heaps of black smoke coming from the rear and it sounded like it had huge overlap cams in it.

Removed the AFM, slapped a R33 AFM on for the dyno run, put my AFM back on and it was ok?!?!? Not sure what happened there but something is a little dodgy with my AFM.

XEQTOR; Let me know how you go, as i just finished doin my coola on the wkend, with the same prob.. Did a vacuum leak test, but no leaks... Sounds like it has a killa set of camshafts in it though :D ... Can notice a fair bit of difference even when it isn't running too smooth which is a good sign i guess..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...