Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb 26 Into A R32 Gts-t Worth It?

335

By 335,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted

If your after 224rwkw roughly i'd just rebuild the RB20 (if it's clapped out) and make it as reliable as possilbe. It can make that power without much stress. My mate is making 210rwkw in his R32 and his engine is dead stock with a decent turbo and support mods. If he rebuilt the motor (i told him to, as opposed to going an RB25 :D ) and got the head ported it would be seeing close to 250kw methinks and be tight, responsive and would last quite a while.

I reckon the extra CC's in the 25 and 26 make them better for the street because of the extra torque and generally quicker boost (depends on turbo size of course). I went on a crusie with three R32's recently and they don't make full boost till about 5000rpm. I easily pull away from them with my stock turbo RB25 until they're doing about 6500rpm and making FULL power :D .

So uprated cams and cam gears with a rebuild will help that, meaning all of this stuff done to your RB20 make it into a weapon.

So don't bother with the conversion if your not DETERMINED to go an RB26. Make what you have work.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Sqd32 Enthusiast

Sqd32

Posted
Posted
I reckon the extra CC's in the 25 and 26 make them better for the street because of the extra torque and generally quicker boost (depends on turbo size of course). I went on a crusie with three R32's recently and they don't make full boost till about 5000rpm. I easily pull away from them with my stock turbo RB25 until they're doing about 6500rpm and making FULL power :D .

So don't bother with the conversion if your not DETERMINED to go an RB26. Make what you have work.

fair statement with the extra cc's, but full boost at 5 grand? how big were the turbos they were running? would have to be something around the td06(10cm housing), gt30 range surely.

R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted
fair statement with the extra cc's, but full boost at 5 grand? how big were the turbos they were running? would have to be something around the td06(10cm housing), gt30 range surely.

I know it's shocking lag. One dude had a KKR something and is about double the size of factory (it nearly touches the strut tower). Another had a highflow which was bored out to the point of the workshop saying "don't bolt it up too tight, you'll warp the housing" :cheers:

They go hard but RB20's need a bit of help if you put it up against the RB25+26. Cams and porting ftw.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
They go hard but RB20's need a bit of help if you put it up against the RB25+26. Cams and porting ftw.

Down low they do suffer. But i would like to add be careful with advice like head work and cams for helping RB20s. Unless of course you can site specific examples where it was worked. Personally from what i have done personally to my car and what other RB2o ownershave done....cams dont automatically do anything for an RB20. Certainly dont make them automatically responsive, certainly dont make them automatically allow them to make more power up top. As for porting, that can slow velocity at low rpm which hurts cylinder filling which will hurt gas velocity and turbo response.

So just be careful if posting absolutes as people can end up wasting lots of money.

The RB20 is a short stroke small discplacement 6 cylinder engine. It will never make great power down low. If you cant live with that then either sell the car or go transplant. If you dont mind waiting a tad for the power, or happy to drive around it...then they can deliver the sort of ols school power that makes you smile ear to ear :D Cheaply and reliably :D

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted (edited)

tell em the price son, the price son.

Roy boys 250rwkw RB20 cost him $400 from the wreckers.

he then bolted his TD06, intercooler, injectors, PFC and a throat full of boost.

almost makes enough power to travel back in time to root his future mum.

Edited by GTST
R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted (edited)
Down low they do suffer. But i would like to add be careful with advice like head work and cams for helping RB20s. Unless of course you can site specific examples where it was worked. Personally from what i have done personally to my car and what other RB2o ownershave done....cams dont automatically do anything for an RB20. Certainly dont make them automatically responsive, certainly dont make them automatically allow them to make more power up top. As for porting, that can slow velocity at low rpm which hurts cylinder filling which will hurt gas velocity and turbo response.

So just be careful if posting absolutes as people can end up wasting lots of money.

The RB20 is a short stroke small discplacement 6 cylinder engine. It will never make great power down low. If you cant live with that then either sell the car or go transplant. If you dont mind waiting a tad for the power, or happy to drive around it...then they can deliver the sort of ols school power that makes you smile ear to ear :) Cheaply and reliably :banana:

What i say isn't absolute or expert opinion, it's my opinion. If anyone takes advice from someone on the forum and spends thousands without asking a workshop to verify are plain stupid :banana:

I agree that cams and porting don't gaurantee an awesome responsive motor. I'm talking from the perspective of RB20 Vs. RB26. If we're talking RB20 left stock to RB20 with head work then of course the stock with have better response but be more restrictive up top.

I can give an example of this work being done, and it backs up what you were saying. One of the dudes on the drive i went on had about 245rwkw on his RB20 with a pair of cams on the head. He said it made a big improvement. Another R32 had a totally stock engine but a slightly bigger turbo. Redlining third gear side-by-side the R32 with cams couldn't pull away (as you'd expect earlier power). Approaching redline the stock motor R32 began to edge away as the turbo on the cam'ed RB20 ran out of puff.

Saw that with my own eyes.

Either the guy was BSing about the amount of power he made or cams don't really do much unless the setup is real special ;)

So as i said, blow for blow a stock RB20 is a good thing for the street if you want response, versus a worked RB20 which might just gain lag from low RPM. But comparing it to an RB26 it will suffer BOTH down low and up top.

almost makes enough power to travel back in time to root his future mum.

:P

Edited by R338OY
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...