Jump to content
SAU Community

Truckie Couldnt See A Car In Front Of Him....


Recommended Posts

seriously....how can you not notice a car stuck to your truck...there must have been smoke from the cars tyres and you would think the driver of the car would be tootin his horn like crazy.

i dont like those interstate truckers, they are always on a rush to meet their timeframe. I always stay behind the truck until theres enough room for me to boot it past them. not a fan of driving next to them.

i dont like those interstate truckers, they are always on a rush to meet their timeframe. I always stay behind the truck until theres enough room for me to boot it past them. not a fan of driving next to them.

i do the exact same thing, never drive next to a truck

It's pretty scary that he has no idea, never mind that he couldn't see it,

* there'd be the physical shock of the truck hitting the car he should be able to feel,

* the noise of striking the car,

* the noise of the car tyres squealing on the road,

* the truck labouring as it suddenly has to push over 1000 kgs of car sideways down the road.

There's also the fact he didn't seem to upset about it, he seemed to be angry rather than remorseful?

Look, my old man's a truckie, and I've driven a few in my time, and most of the drivers I know are amongst the best drivers on the road, but it's d**kheads like this that grab media attention and give the general public the impression that all truckies are drugged up maniacs.

And generally, the average driver who has an incident with a truckie has usually brought it upon themselves, eg, pulling in front of them leading up to a red light, because there's space - which of course the truckie has created, and needs to slow and stop his 50 tonne vehicle.

on the lighter side - Aussie cops - " oi, are you fair dinkum?" lol.

Saw that on ACA... ...they played it up in the usual way...

Years ago I was with a mate in his truck and a car cut him off as we were coming up to a red light... ...We were in one of the long nose trucks...

So at the lights my mate kept creeping up on the car... ...and the car would move forward and they'd wave their arms out the windows and we'd move up closer again... ...and they'd wave their arms again... ...and move forward again... ...and we'd creep up again... ...wave arms... ...and they'd move forward... ...and we'd creep...

Then the lights went green and they took off like crazy...

And they were towing little 4x4ft trailer...

THAT WE NEVER SAW BECAUSE OF THE WAY THEY CUT IN FRONT OF US!!!...

I always give trucks plenty of room... ...And blast past them when I can... ...And I'll also drop back and flash my lights whenever I see one trying to change lanes to let them know I'm clear of their rear...

In one of those long nose trucks, you can't see shat right in front of you. If the car was sideways, I doubt he saw it.

As for the noise, those trucks aren't quiet, if he was at higher revs, and it was an impact like that one in the tunnel, he might not have heard it.

The noise of tyres squealing should have been audible though, it's not a normal noise.

As for the truck labouring to push the car, I very much doubt it, you could throw another few tonnes in the back and it wouldn't notice, why would it notice a small tin can attached to the front?

I learnt to drive a heavy rigid (loaded to 16 tonne), and that's scary the first time you're out with other traffic. Car drivers don't appreciate how different it is until they drive one. I always thought I gave trucks enough space (I wish some of them would do the same), turns out they need more.

The truck driver should have been using his mirrors a lot for situational awareness, and then wondered where the car had gone when he couldn't see it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...