Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

my gtr is tuned for bp ultimate but after reading this article which 'maybe' motec has an affiliation with shell but i dont really care about that...

www.motec.com.au/fueltest/results.htm

...i am now tempted to get a retune on shell vpower.

i did a search & found some good info here - out of interest what is the preference fuel used here on a modified turbo?

fyi im running 325awkw.

thanks,

Edited by Marko R1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211490-shell-vpower-or-bp-ultimate/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

thank your fkn lucky stars you can get vpower. its "out of order" everywhere i have seen in sydney for months now. so i have to make 10minute detours to find 98 octane caltex or mobil. its a fkn joke, god knows what the explanation is.

in regards to your actual query though, i really dont think there would be discernible difference between bp and shell. all i would say is go to a high traffic servo because they have fresher fuel.

fresh is best!

that said, i loved vpower, and never had any trouble with it WHEN IT WAS AVAILABLE!

fkrs!

Hold on a sec, the article talks about V power racing (100 octane with some ethanol) and your talking about Vpower (98 octane)?

They're different things, one costs more and is extremely difficult to find :)

My tuner recommends a 100 octane fuel for track days so thats what I used last time, but I use BP ultimate for day to day and its been fine.

bp ultimate is my trusted fuel for both my rb20det and 26dett... both have never missed a beat and run perfectly... when i was in landscaping i also used ultimate in my honda mower and whipper snipper both been 4 strokes and they had alot more punch...

ultimate ftw! :)

happy easter

In my GTS-T daily driver I have used both Shell V-Power and BP Ultimate and it runs better on the BP Ultimate and I even get better fuel enonomy as an added bonus.

In my GTR I run Shell V-Power Racing (100 Octane) because the GTR loves it and she is more responsive right through the rev range. This stuff is hard to get and it costs more but for a limited use car it is worth the extra hassle and extra cost.

Tried v-power once in the gtr after using it for 3 years in the silvia and it ran like shit... ultimate it runs great. loves ultimate + octane booster though or just v-power racing but we dont have that up central qld way.

my r33 gtst auto is tuned to 320rwkws on shell v power.

knock levels on the pfc never go above 15, at 24psi boost.

due to running low on fuel i pulled into a bp that is a very high use servo and filled up with

ultimate. first time i opened it up after that i seen the dash light flash, and backed off, resulting in a knock of 76.

shit.

i thought suerly that cant be fuel related, so a few das later i opned it up again to 19 psi and straight away i had knock up to the low 80's. the rest of the tank was used up with less then 5 psi boost.

a fresh load of v power, and all happy again straight to 24 pound with knock in the low teens.

enough said i think.

havent touched it since.

a fresh load of v power, and all happy again straight to 24 pound with knock in the low teens.

enough said i think.

yeah the 100 octane v power racing is a great detonation killer

We only have the 98 vpower here in Adelaide. :rofl:

Im keen to check out the difference between the two fuels once/when I eventually run some decent boost; especially considering loonyman4 runs on the same dyno as I. :D

oh ok - my bad

well in vic we have 100ron v power racing its great

i have it on tap at my local shell 5 seconds from my place

and the price of it changes about once a month if that, my local shell had it at $1.59 for about 1.5 months

ive been using it past 2 months now

in summer with massive intake temps, exposed pod, aggressive timing

full load run uphill on a freeway on ramp - knock of like 10 is the most i see

if i had 98 in it it knocks around 60+ ish

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...