Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Looking at purchasing a FMIC, dont mind spending money thats needed, wanna do things once and right!

My question is what are your opinions on direct bolt on intercoolers and cutting into your chasis? bad idea to be cutting into chasis for shorter piping or is it fairly safe? i was looking at these couple intercoolers just curious to know which would be the better way to go? Any input would be great.

Thanks

post-36420-1206372443_thumb.jpg

post-36420-1206372455_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211818-intercooler-choice/
Share on other sites

find a workshop that will supply and fit an intercooler for around $500

there should be a few workshops these days that can do them at this price

this should also include not cutting front reo bars etc and a proper install

ask them before you hand over $

The first one is less work, but if you ever plan on running a forward facing plenum you wont be able to keep it.

Tube and fin intercoolers are more efficient, and usually dearer. APEXi used to make a Hybrid Intercooler which was both Bar and Tube...

The only thing with the first intercooler is that the piping is for a Supra?

The pipes come out on the one side like the Blitz, but they are facing the wrong way [should be facing away].

I run with a Blitz, no complaints.

I've just had a HDI one installed thinking of changing it to a Justjap one so I can run the standard airbox again ... very happy with their exhaust system so I'm sure I'll be happy with this also ... although I'm only gonna run 10-13psi max through it it probally overkill

I just had a jap intercooler installed by Morpowa in Adelaide, trust me.. keep away from the cheap alternative. The cooler is cheap (around $350 for kit inc piping) and the quality seems to be very good, but the piping is completely wrong (sold as an R33 R34 kit). The installers swore black n blue that they would never fit one again. Pipes too short, silicon sleeves too small, had to change the wiper motor to a smaller one to fit, spacers from the block so piping could be secured.. all kinds of hassles. Just get the Greddy kit.. so much easier and no hassles!

Has anyone installed one of those just jap ones that use the standard piping on an r33?

Post up pics how it looks from the front! :):D:D

Give me a couple of weeks and I will show pics. Making payment tomorrow morning for mine, so by the time it gets here will be early next week most likely, install when I get the chance after work/the next weekend. Though mine will be painted black with black joiners, aim is stealth.

I just had a jap intercooler installed by Morpowa in Adelaide, trust me.. keep away from the cheap alternative. The cooler is cheap (around $350 for kit inc piping) and the quality seems to be very good, but the piping is completely wrong (sold as an R33 R34 kit). The installers swore black n blue that they would never fit one again. Pipes too short, silicon sleeves too small, had to change the wiper motor to a smaller one to fit, spacers from the block so piping could be secured.. all kinds of hassles. Just get the Greddy kit.. so much easier and no hassles!

Hmmm was considering JustJap kit, now my confidence is a little bit tattered. :ninja: So the problem was with the pipng and joins? Perhaps get a justjap intercooler and buy piping/joinery seperate?

Hmmm was considering JustJap kit, now my confidence is a little bit tattered. :D So the problem was with the pipng and joins? Perhaps get a justjap intercooler and buy piping/joinery seperate?

Absolutely.. only problem is.. it may end up being cheaper just to get the Greddy kit, i think i saw the whole kit with piping on ebay for around $500. Or just take it to the istaller and let em put on whatever they suggest, i think the hybrid or Greddy from performance shops are around the $1000 mark plus around $300 for install

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...