Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SK, I might be misunderstanding, are you saying that if the revs aren't excessive then the rods should be able to handle a lot more than 4-500hp? I have my 30 limited to 6800rpm, reckon I would be able to push more than 400rwhp on the stock rods with that limit?

The real question is what is excessive RPM? Remember RB30's barely reved over 6,000 rpm standard. Adding around 500 rpm = double the load on the pistons and rods, so at 6,800 rpm you are already way more than double the standard loading.

Cheers

Gary

Hmm, well that's not very comforting :/

Would it be advisable to lower the limiter? I don't rev past 6000rpm now anyway due to the tiny rb25 turbo choking the engine up and I've got taller diff ratios which help with the lesser rpm..

I imagine with the GT35R strapped on there I'm going to have an abundance of torque and might not necessarily need to rev it to 6800..

Hmm, well that's not very comforting :domokun:

Would it be advisable to lower the limiter? I don't rev past 6000rpm now anyway due to the tiny rb25 turbo choking the engine up and I've got taller diff ratios which help with the lesser rpm..

I imagine with the GT35R strapped on there I'm going to have an abundance of torque and might not necessarily need to rev it to 6800..

Im going to be reving mine to 7200 once its tuned, I reckon 6800 is being a bit too concervative especially with forgies make sure you got a really good tune and it shoud be apples!

Im going to be reving mine to 7200 once its tuned, I reckon 6800 is being a bit too concervative especially with forgies make sure you got a really good tune and it shoud be apples!

I was answering a question about standard rods and pistons, hence the mention of the 6,000 rpm

Cheers

Gary

I was answering a question about standard rods and pistons, hence the mention of the 6,000 rpm

Cheers

Gary

Fair enough, just want to get this straight in my head are you saying not to rev over 6k with stock pistons and rods?

Fair enough, just want to get this straight in my head are you saying not to rev over 6k with stock pistons and rods?

If only it were that simple. There is more than one limit on the strength of components question, there is knock, boost, RPM and torque to start off with. Keeping in mind that BHP is simply torque x rpm. For example, I hear quite often 400 rwhp is OK on the standard components. Well it isn't if you are using 7,500 rpm. It also isn't OK if you are running 1.5 bar of boost. Not to mention 70 plus knock all the time. My rule of thumb is quite simple, no more than 475 bhp (around 300 rwkw), 1 bar of boost, zero knock and 6,500 rpm limit. A standard internals RB30 will live a long life within those limits, I built one in 1999 that is still going strong.

Cheers

Gary

  • 3 weeks later...
What about machining? some people say they've had theirs machined, though i thought RB30 cranks were nitrided from the factory and therefore, not a good idea to get them machined? can they be re-nitrided?

Yes, although if the crank needs machining, its easier/cheaper to get one that doesn't

had mine machined etc and even nitrided for good measure. Argo rods, ceramic coated cp pistons, jun pump and collar, ati balancer... All balanced. Setting rev limit to 8000rpm...although it will only be bounching at that over the dyno..I think street tune will be 7000rpm.

  • 2 weeks later...
stock crank nitrided i can vouch has handled 1068 rwhp @9000rpm 10 000rpm in burnout also threw 2 rods and the crank was still true. but im very interested in the stroker kit for the rb30

was there any mods done to the block???

block was std never ran an oversize over 87mm yet,usuals like drilled galleries gtr head studs etc

this year the engine is grout filled running methanol and is solid mounted

Edited by jas/slo32
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...