Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what would you charge for the rb30 stroker crank and rods?

you mentioned making forgies with it, but me and i notced a few others have gone the N/A path so just wondering if you were making non forged pistons to suit?

are you going to make these reguarly or made to order or just the 1 off batch?

any reason to why your not making this kit with a non forged piston? (not everyone wants to go the forced induction path)

can the kit be bought without the pistons?

whats the height difference between the normal rb30 piston and the piston for the 3.3?

i've been told there are pistons that have a shorter skirt that will suit the rb30de im building, cant remember the part number but what are the chances of them suiting?

do you balance the cranks?

will the 3.3 crank have knife edging or standard counter weights?

Shaun O - around the $6500 - 7000 mark with the AUS dollar at its current rate. It should see 7500 - 8000 plus rpm depending on setup.

Gerg R31 - The reason is that you are the only person who has mentioned it, so Im presuming demand is minimal especially due to the price involved. The other reason is that no one readily and easily makes cast pistons in short runs or one offs. I could easily make you a forged piston for an NA set up though. You would just have to spec the comp ratio you require. The length of the skirt has nothing to do with the comp ratio.

Edited by Spoolup

i just thought you may have designed pistons that were shorter to suit the stroker kit, if the over all height of the pistons dont change i might still be able to get the ones i had in mind, though i know forgies handle heat better

im aiming at around 10.5:1 to 11:1 comp ratio so if you made me a piston the rb25de piston dome with valve releif would be fine with me

plus i work at a machine shop so decking and other machine work and balancing etc is easily done

are you making the kit pistons dome with valve releif? flat top? or dish?

(i know alot of questions but more info may also bring more interest)

Edited by Gerg_R31
im sure that would be ok due to the lower rev range of the 30.

Well the rb26 in thier Z drag car is seeing 10,000 rpm with the tomei pump so i would think rob has something sorted...

Spool, so you 3.4L kits will rev to 7500-8000rpm?

We will have to wait and see - but similar setups with the 3.4L 2JZ ( near identical bore stroke ratio ) have gone 8000 plus easily enough

Well the rb26 in thier Z drag car is seeing 10,000 rpm with the tomei pump so i would think rob has something sorted...

Spool, so you 3.4L kits will rev to 7500-8000rpm?

Well the rb26 in thier Z drag car is seeing 10,000 rpm with the tomei pump so i would think rob has something sorted...

I have never had a RB26 in the 240z, its always been a RB30, stock block, stock crank, RIPS wet sump etc and anyone who says a stock 30 crank won't rev hard or is limited to 7500 etc is talking rubbish

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=nHLfRseF_F4

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=G6qtA0_kQUc

9500-10,000 rpm during burnout

Rob

Edited by R.I.P.S NZ
I have never had a RB26 in the 240z, its always been a RB30, stock block, stock crank, RIPS wet sump etc and anyone who says a stock 30 crank won't rev hard or is limited to 7500 etc is talking rubbish

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=nHLfRseF_F4

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=G6qtA0_kQUc

9500-10,000 rpm during burnout

Rob

Bah you know i mean't. :P

Lol, clam down, its all good :) I was just correcting your 26 comment, nothing else in my post was directed at you.

I'm calm, its you rb30/26 thats the angry one. More nos, bigger injectors, more boost, less tit grabbing at the nats, and do some 7's :P

I'm calm, its you rb30/26 thats the angry one. More nos, bigger injectors, more boost, less tit grabbing at the nats, and do some 7's :happy:

Yes sir!! lol, I'll get all the non car stuff out of the way the night before, lol.

Next meet is this Saturday then another the following Sunday so I'll give it my best shot.

Rob

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...