Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I've stripped my R32 Rb20 Front Halfcut.... any there are heaps of parts i don't need.

i'll list all the main parts, and as per forum rules... i will post a price, if you are unhappy with my prices, please keep in mind all these prices are negotiable!

~ Prefer Pickup, parts located North Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne

~ Contact Mark on 0408 569 685

______________________________

INTERIOR

Centre Dash piece (good condition, its the big dash bit that goes in the middle where the radio etc is) - $15

Accelerator pedal and bracket - $10

Brake Pedal, bracket and sensor switch - $15

Under dash front intrusion bar (very good condition) - $5

AirCon core box (very good condition) - $20

Under dash fan box (very good condition) - $15

Glove box (quite good condition, small plastic mount snapped, but easily repaired) - $15

SUSPENSION AND STEERING PARTS

Std Shocks and Springs ~ front pair only (very good condition, not leaking) - $35

Std Castor rods ~ pair (excellent condition, bushes look brand new) - $45

Std 5 stud Hubs and Rotors ~ front pair (hubs and disk rotors in great condition) - $70

Std Upper control arms ~ front pair (very good condition, perfect if yours are bent from accident) - $45

Std Sway bar (very good condition) - $25

ENGINE BAY PARTS

Carbon canister (very good condition) - $15 Sold pending payment

Clutch Fan (quite good condition) - $15

Solid Brake lines ~ front pair (very good condition) - $10

Windscreen Wiper Arms ~ complete (good condition, but need a coat of paint) - $10

Windscreen Wiper Motor - (very good condition) - $15

Bonnet release cable and latch - (very good condition) - $15

Bonnet hinges ~ pair (good condition) - $5

AirCon reciever dryer and condenser (very good condition) - $20

____________________________________________________________

if you need something that isnt listed here, ask me anyway as i may still have it

Edited by Ruffels

Centre Dash piece (good condition, its the big dash bit that goes in the middle where the radio etc is) - $15

Hi mate,

is this the whole thing or just the centre console surround (the bit that go around radio and down to gear boot)

if this is the surround part, I'll take it, can u post it to 2250 NSW?

How much all up?

Cheers

Edited by subie

Hey mate, do you have a drivers aApillar interior trim? (with no holes(i know its a big ask))

If so could you please PM me with price and i will pick up.

Thanks!

Femno, unfortunatly they cut the car at the a pillar, so i don't have those trims, sorry!

Rad33, all main vents are either missing or damaged, however i have circular drivers side vent, and the small vents that blow at the windscreen and at the side windows

do you have all the demister airvents for the top dash?

are they warped/cracked from the sun?

Ill take them :P

edit; will also take the door hinges if the rubber is perfect on them.

Can you PM me some pics?

What suburb are the parts located?

ALL PM's Replied!

________________

sorry mate, forgot to mention that i'm keeping all engine and gearbox components for an engine swap into another car... just selling bits i don't need

once again i appologize about the confusion

-Mark

how much for afm? pm me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...