Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Equinox - That dyno chart is fine assuming you mean run about 1bar at manifold, 2.25 ratio. Remember the compressor charts are a ratio of output pressure/input pressure at the compressor housings (after losses).

output pressure = pressure before losses through piping and intercooler plus normal atmosphere (estimate 2psi loss = 16.7 + 14.7)

input pressure = pressure after vaccum loss to air filter and piping. (estimate 12.7psi, ie. 2psi vacuum relative to atmosphere)

Ratio =

(16.7 + 14.7)/12.7 = 2.5

(brackets are guestimates - I do not stand by them at all) :)

Not being a smart arse just trying to create some clarity for those using compressor charts. :P

Ohh and I agree GTRS would be my turbo of choice (if I wasn't so broke). HKS quote 225rwkw at 0.9bar I beleive on RB25, seems to be on the money.

Edited by simpletool

Looks like this is shaping up to be a GTRS vs 2835 Pro S thread.

I am installing a 2835 Pro S in around 2 weeks. I went through the whole turbo analysis phase and came down to a choice between these two. My requirements where 250-280rwkw on stock internals (I have all other supporting mods) whilst maintaining response. It was a hard choice, but I had heard more positives from people who had a 2835, hence I went for that!

Surely the .68 vs .64 A/R would make a minimal difference in response? I have heard 2835 users state boost comes on as early as 2.5k rpm?

Don't forget that the GTRS uses a HKS enhanced GT"28" turbine housing where the Pro S turbos use HKS enhanced GT "30" turbine housings . If you had the turbine housing off a T3 flanged (RB spec) GTRS and a 0.68 A/R Pro S one sided by side you could see a marked difference .

Personally I suspect it's a price thing going on here GTRS vs 2835 Pro S , if the price was line ball I'd go for the 2835 every time .

What would be interesting for comparison price wise would be a GTRS kit supplied with their dump pipe and all the extras to get it on an R33 GTS25T .

As for SR20's , they use T28 flanged exhaust manifolds so you could fit either a 0.64 or a 0.86 A/R GT28 turbine housing to a GTRS . Neither Garrett or HKS made T3 flanged 0.86 A/R GT28 turbine housings , Garrett do the 64 and the 86 in T28 flange and HKS do the 64 in T28 and T3 flange to suit CA/SR or RB engines .

A .

a bit out of left field but what about using the twin spec turbo in a single spec setup?

that is, using say a 2835 from a twin GTR kit on a single turbo setup.

troy (roy) has a twin trust turbo setup, but is only using a single turbo on his rb20.

it has one of the best curves and setups ever seen on an rb20.

there's a 2835 kit in twin form for the GTR with twin external gate.

i dont think you can order a 2835 in single form with external gate.

any ideas / ball park on the specs of the 2835 ex gate version from the GTR twin kit?

I would have to check Paul but often the larger HKS spec (larger that GT28xx) twins use smaller (than 56) trim compressors like from memory HKS GT2835's for RB26's used 52T 71mm compressors , I think some 3037's were the same deal . Their GT3240 is just a cropped GT35 turbine (cropped to ~ GT32 dimensions) and the compressor was a 54T version of the GT3582R's compressor .

The GTRS (GT2871R 52T) was a later addition to their line up and its 71mm GT35 compressor is 52T as well .

That's why I was always keen on 3037 52T's in the past . It's not always easy to get maps for the smaller trim compressors but the usual trend is (all else being equal) as compressor trim falls turbine efficiency rises .

Brett at GCG reckons all bets are off between HKS and Garrett now and their altered spec cartridges should be available - maybe special order though . Trouble is you probably won't get HKS's housings from Garrett and Garrett don't do T3 flanged turbine housings for the cropped GT30 turbine .

You may be able to rat up a second hand GT2835 Pro turbine housing and buy a 52 comp trim cartridge for it .

Information is scarce but there may have been a 48T version of the 2835 intended for Subaru or Toyota , I can't remember which .

Anyway HKS catalogs show 48 and 52T versions of 2835s and 3037s .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...