Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r32line is only stating ONE of the points to tell the cars condtition just at a glance.

He's not saying Plenum paint = flaked off = f**ked engine...

Its just one of many things.

My plenum still had the paint on it just bits of it flaking off and no where near the condtition of the pics posted in J-Spec Imports.

I had to get new front disk, then rebuild my rear diff, then I rebuilt my turbos, then changed my clutch.

And it was a 90 model with 113 000kms.

But judging its a 93 model, 126 100kms on the clock and a plenum looking like that, you COULD say its been thrashed OR previous owner tried to get rid of the paint but did a shitty job...

Could be anything.

Best is to test the car itself.

BTW I was sent an email by Prestige Motorsport PTY LTD

This MIGHT be a cause of a low price car...

"Although it a R32 GTR, the price will not be HIGHLY affected but may have caused it to drop in price"

Please note that vehicle prices are way down thanks to the end of Japanese financial year plus current global economic uncertainty.

Most affected appear to be the more expensive vehicles, which is not that surprising since luxury items are always first affected in troubled times. Lancer EVO's, V35 Skylines and R34 GTR's are all considerably cheaper than they were just a few months ago, due to a sudden world decrease in demand and a coincident increase in supply due to the end of financial year stock clearances. Cheaper models are also being affected to some extent, although not as much as the models mentioned above which have dropped in price by many thousands of dollars. EVO 8's with low kms and in pristine grade 4.5 condition are down by about $6,000, and are selling from the low $30,000's complied, with higher km examples well under $30,000 complied. Some R34 GTR's have dropped by $10,000 over what they were selling for just months ago. V35's are also down by thousands.

With the exchange rate sitting at 93.99 Yen to the dollar today, we are right in the middle of a "perfect storm" of conditions which are creating the opportunity for massive cost savings on many import models, for those in a position to buy. It is hard to imagine cheaper prices at auction than we are seeing this last week or so.

There is no telling how long these conditions will last, so those in a position to take advantage of this unusual situation are encouraged to look at their options now if they want to pick themselves up a bargain.

Please note that your choice is not simply limited to what you see listed in our online stock sections. We have thousands of other vehicles to choose from at auction each week at amazing prices and we specialise in finding you the perfect vehicle to your exact requirements, including genuine low kms and non-smoker's vehicles. We have experienced buyers checking vehicles in person at auction so we can provide a level of detail that most others are simply unable to.

Our automated auction system sends vehicles of interest straight to your e-mail each morning, so it is extremely easy. You just tell us what you like each morning and we will take it from there.

If you'd like to see what is available just get in touch and let us know the model/s of interest, we'd be happy to add you to a free trial of our auction search system so you can judge for yourself, completely obligation free !

For our FAQ with answers to most questions please see: http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modules/wffaq/

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)
BUT - If the plennum is chipped like the one in that photo the car is a POS NO QUESTION!! But don't take my word for it - Buy one like it and find out for yourself...

I had a GTR for three years that didn't have any paint on the plenum; it never missed a beat. Then again maybe the chipped paint is the reason an AFM broke right at the end. :(

Plenum paint = motor health is BS :bunny:

+1

I had a GTR for three years that didn't have any paint on the plenum; it never missed a beat. Then again maybe the chipped paint is the reason an AFM broke right at the end. :(

Plenum paint = motor health is BS :D

+1

Well thats conclusive proof then. Don't know why japanese writers of GTR magazine would say it is one of the good indicators of the engines life/history of treatment....Given it only comes off under extreme heat beyond normal use.... but what would they know....

Edited by r32line

Perhaps another cause of the paint coming off is going from -20degrees to 80degrees constantly in winter? I can't imagine paint would like that much.

The plenum is on the opposite side of the turbos so getting excessive heat under the engine bay is more likely to cause paint damage on the hot side.The logic is quite flawed.

The valve and timing covers are the same sort of alloy, one would expect them to lose more paint closer to the turbos.

If it's meant to indicate 'serious thrashing that leads to extreme heat beyond normal use' as you suggest. I have to say that I've never seen the paint come off the plenum at track days as an instant result of this.

The most obvious areas to look for 'over heating' are the oil and cooling systems or the things they bugger up when run to extreme temps. Like compression and cyl leakage.

You buy a car from japan this old and you take your chances. Given you can't walk up and test these motors, Plenum paint is the least of your worries and so this BS myth belongs in the bin as an old wives tale.

Well thats conclusive proof then. Don't know why japanese writers of GTR magazine would say it is one of the good indicators of the engines life/history of treatment....Given it only comes off under extreme heat beyond normal use.... but what would they know....

I'm sorry, I haven't explained myself properly. My experience (200,000km, 145psi, 18 year old RB26) IS conclusive proof that refutes your claim that "plennum [sic] is chipped ... the car is a POS NO QUESTION!!"

This myth has been busted.

I don't mean to put too fine a point on it, but rev210's excellent post shows how you should go with what makes sense and not what you read on the internet or in a magazine. Use the net/mags to give you a head start, but be wary of using them as an authoritative source.

lol totally agree hahaha, dont believe whats in the magazines :thumbsup:

last i checked (according to the magazines) the R32 GTR could only ever muster 280rwkw with stock fmic. and with that power, do a 12.1sec 1.4 ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...