Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive got a new fuel pump on its way im hoping this is the fix. will install it when my hand heals up as a open burn and fuel dosnt mix to well. at the end of the day if i can fix the problem yourself you always feel that much better about youself. weres the fun in taking your car to a mechanic and saying fix this as you will learn nothing other than to rely on other people

cheers james

  • 2 weeks later...

Just a little update on my problem

Fuel filter got changed the other day and their was that much crap in it. I removed the fuel pump thinking their would be a bit of rusty crap in the tank after seeing the filter but as it turns their was a crap lot more than i thought to a point that only half the under side of the filter sock thing was able to let fuel through. So if all goes well when a new tank and the pump get put in i hope its going to be all sweet.

cheers james

  • 2 weeks later...

Changed fuel tank over on the weekend and the fuel was brown lol. Now the car not only feels smoother it has gained all the lost power over 4 grand hopefully it stays this way and i have no more problems

cheers james

  • 11 months later...

Hey man did you know what was wrong in the end.. i have the same problem in my r32 gtst also. ive changed my fuel pumps, and also the spark plugs. the coil packs are stock but i have checked for cracks and all.. any idea if it was the fuel filter?

thanks niran

Hey man did you know what was wrong in the end.. i have the same problem in my r32 gtst also. ive changed my fuel pumps, and also the spark plugs. the coil packs are stock but i have checked for cracks and all.. any idea if it was the fuel filter?

thanks niran

Remap and coil packs. Guarantee this will fix it if you've replaced everything else.

Remap and coil packs. Guarantee this will fix it if you've replaced everything else.

hey bro, yer i changed coil packs still no good, even changed ecu's lol, it comes as the car warms up i was thinkin maybe i have a small solder crack with the joins on the air flow meter?

What the h3ll is it with ppl avoiding taking their car to a mechanic?? I wonder just how many cars are kept off the road for months at a time cos of ppl scratching around on here trying to solve faulst which could be solved in a hours of a mechanic's time. Especially when ppl have a hard time describing faults on here... you could just SHOW it to a mechanic and say "THERE! THAT! What IS that?? Fix it pls!"

lol you said it man.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...