Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will need!!!!

ECU of some description

Fuel pump and Reg so as to max out injectors by raising fuel pressure (not the best way to do things)

FMIC

Exhaust (other wise you are wasting your time)

Bleed valve (boost control of some kind)

Now I would go a z32 AFM as well

also some injectors

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3766788
Share on other sites

17psi on a stock tune could make mince meat of a piston in no time... If you dont have the correct AFR (air fuel ratio) you run a high risk of detonation due to lean fuel and air mixtures.

But you might be lucky, I have heard of people doing it and not having troubles...

However, my advice is to run a maximum of 12 - 14psi with a stock R33 RB25DET computer, if you start running anything over this kind of boost you may have serious issues with your AFR's being far to lean and if you get even a small boost spike without safe mixtures you could easily end up with a piston head with a large chunk missing.

Do it once, do it right...

1st step - Fuel pump (Bosch 040 or Walbro are the most popular)

2nd step - Splitfires (or higher amperage coils) the standard coils dont have high enough amps and with more boost you could end up blowing out the spark at high RPM.

3rd step - Computer and injectors (try not to go over 550cc on a stock motor as they can be a bitch to tune if they're to big) and something like a Power FC plug in or a Microtech would be needed to control the whole kit.

Oh and make sure that you have some sort of reliable boost control and a front mount + big exhaust or you'll just choke a bigger turbo and it wont breathe enough for decent power gains.

Ive been through all of this and unless you know what your doing and can do most of it yourself it can become very expensive.

Happy shopping :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3767492
Share on other sites

Bullet - I've got 740cc's goin in, stock block + GTRS, mods as in sig. Was told it'll be fine by my mechanic. Is it just 'fiddly' to do or something?

It really depends on your overall set up and the power that you are looking to get out of it as to which injector size is well suited.

Bigger is not necessarily better when it comes to injectors, I originally put 650cc squirters in mine and because I was building a set up more for response and track work rather than outright power or drag racing they were far to big.

When the tune was being done with the 650's my tuner had to pull out over 50% of the fuel going in to keep the AFR's right and that made it run like crap because the injector duty was to low, it also refused to idle.

So 550cc's went in and they were as big as I needed for my set up.

If youre looking for about 300kw at the wheels, which isnt a huge ask with the turbo you have then you will probably need bigger than 550's in yours, you will probably need a rising rate fuel reg to keep as much pressure in the rail as possible to.

I dont claim to be a tuning expert, but I have done just about every bolt on mod that you can do to an RB motor aswell as a lot of time on the dyno having it tuned, Im only speaking from my own experience. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3768813
Share on other sites

17psi on a stock tune could make mince meat of a piston in no time... If you dont have the correct AFR (air fuel ratio) you run a high risk of detonation due to lean fuel and air mixtures.

But you might be lucky, I have heard of people doing it and not having troubles...

However, my advice is to run a maximum of 12 - 14psi with a stock R33 RB25DET computer, if you start running anything over this kind of boost you may have serious issues with your AFR's being far to lean and if you get even a small boost spike without safe mixtures you could easily end up with a piston head with a large chunk missing.

Do it once, do it right...

1st step - Fuel pump (Bosch 040 or Walbro are the most popular)

2nd step - Splitfires (or higher amperage coils) the standard coils dont have high enough amps and with more boost you could end up blowing out the spark at high RPM.

3rd step - Computer and injectors (try not to go over 550cc on a stock motor as they can be a bitch to tune if they're to big) and something like a Power FC plug in or a Microtech would be needed to control the whole kit.

Oh and make sure that you have some sort of reliable boost control and a front mount + big exhaust or you'll just choke a bigger turbo and it wont breathe enough for decent power gains.

Ive been through all of this and unless you know what your doing and can do most of it yourself it can become very expensive.

Happy shopping :)

+ 1 on everything said here, apart from id go 740 injectors because your buying them, you may as well go that big. mean while this is doing everything right, you could get away with doing less then half the stuff, but its all risk management!

take it easy, stuart

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3769082
Share on other sites

Hmm I've got a Nismo pump instead of the rising rate fuel reg. I'm looking for 260-270, I don't like fireworks (stock bottom end!). So from what you said, I guess yeah I'm better off with my 740cc's. Will find out earyl next week anyway when John's done!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3769381
Share on other sites

555 nismo injectors, 70% duty cycle, std internals except tomei sticks, 290+rwkw

I have a SARD fpr, so may help a bit?

I reckon 550's would be fine myself, but its your $$$$ and 555's cost nearly as much as 740's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3773267
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...