Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will need!!!!

ECU of some description

Fuel pump and Reg so as to max out injectors by raising fuel pressure (not the best way to do things)

FMIC

Exhaust (other wise you are wasting your time)

Bleed valve (boost control of some kind)

Now I would go a z32 AFM as well

also some injectors

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3766788
Share on other sites

17psi on a stock tune could make mince meat of a piston in no time... If you dont have the correct AFR (air fuel ratio) you run a high risk of detonation due to lean fuel and air mixtures.

But you might be lucky, I have heard of people doing it and not having troubles...

However, my advice is to run a maximum of 12 - 14psi with a stock R33 RB25DET computer, if you start running anything over this kind of boost you may have serious issues with your AFR's being far to lean and if you get even a small boost spike without safe mixtures you could easily end up with a piston head with a large chunk missing.

Do it once, do it right...

1st step - Fuel pump (Bosch 040 or Walbro are the most popular)

2nd step - Splitfires (or higher amperage coils) the standard coils dont have high enough amps and with more boost you could end up blowing out the spark at high RPM.

3rd step - Computer and injectors (try not to go over 550cc on a stock motor as they can be a bitch to tune if they're to big) and something like a Power FC plug in or a Microtech would be needed to control the whole kit.

Oh and make sure that you have some sort of reliable boost control and a front mount + big exhaust or you'll just choke a bigger turbo and it wont breathe enough for decent power gains.

Ive been through all of this and unless you know what your doing and can do most of it yourself it can become very expensive.

Happy shopping :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3767492
Share on other sites

Bullet - I've got 740cc's goin in, stock block + GTRS, mods as in sig. Was told it'll be fine by my mechanic. Is it just 'fiddly' to do or something?

It really depends on your overall set up and the power that you are looking to get out of it as to which injector size is well suited.

Bigger is not necessarily better when it comes to injectors, I originally put 650cc squirters in mine and because I was building a set up more for response and track work rather than outright power or drag racing they were far to big.

When the tune was being done with the 650's my tuner had to pull out over 50% of the fuel going in to keep the AFR's right and that made it run like crap because the injector duty was to low, it also refused to idle.

So 550cc's went in and they were as big as I needed for my set up.

If youre looking for about 300kw at the wheels, which isnt a huge ask with the turbo you have then you will probably need bigger than 550's in yours, you will probably need a rising rate fuel reg to keep as much pressure in the rail as possible to.

I dont claim to be a tuning expert, but I have done just about every bolt on mod that you can do to an RB motor aswell as a lot of time on the dyno having it tuned, Im only speaking from my own experience. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3768813
Share on other sites

17psi on a stock tune could make mince meat of a piston in no time... If you dont have the correct AFR (air fuel ratio) you run a high risk of detonation due to lean fuel and air mixtures.

But you might be lucky, I have heard of people doing it and not having troubles...

However, my advice is to run a maximum of 12 - 14psi with a stock R33 RB25DET computer, if you start running anything over this kind of boost you may have serious issues with your AFR's being far to lean and if you get even a small boost spike without safe mixtures you could easily end up with a piston head with a large chunk missing.

Do it once, do it right...

1st step - Fuel pump (Bosch 040 or Walbro are the most popular)

2nd step - Splitfires (or higher amperage coils) the standard coils dont have high enough amps and with more boost you could end up blowing out the spark at high RPM.

3rd step - Computer and injectors (try not to go over 550cc on a stock motor as they can be a bitch to tune if they're to big) and something like a Power FC plug in or a Microtech would be needed to control the whole kit.

Oh and make sure that you have some sort of reliable boost control and a front mount + big exhaust or you'll just choke a bigger turbo and it wont breathe enough for decent power gains.

Ive been through all of this and unless you know what your doing and can do most of it yourself it can become very expensive.

Happy shopping :)

+ 1 on everything said here, apart from id go 740 injectors because your buying them, you may as well go that big. mean while this is doing everything right, you could get away with doing less then half the stuff, but its all risk management!

take it easy, stuart

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3769082
Share on other sites

Hmm I've got a Nismo pump instead of the rising rate fuel reg. I'm looking for 260-270, I don't like fireworks (stock bottom end!). So from what you said, I guess yeah I'm better off with my 740cc's. Will find out earyl next week anyway when John's done!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3769381
Share on other sites

555 nismo injectors, 70% duty cycle, std internals except tomei sticks, 290+rwkw

I have a SARD fpr, so may help a bit?

I reckon 550's would be fine myself, but its your $$$$ and 555's cost nearly as much as 740's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213155-turbo-question/#findComment-3773267
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...