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Do I Need Z32's For 400ish Hp? R34 Gtr

Got Boost?

By Got Boost?,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Got Boost? Experienced

Got Boost?

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

I've got an R34 GTR VSpec II and am about to do some mods to her.

R34 N1's

700cc Injectors

Walbro Pump

Apexi PFC

HKS Intake

Exhaust w/ High Flow cat

I have Z32 AFM's also which im trying to decide whether to fit or to sell, for the power those mods will produce (Hoping like 350 - 400rwhp) will i need Z32's? If not what kind of power will i need to be making to justify them?

Also, as far as the mods go, is there anything i have overlooked that will add easy power to the car that i should be considering? (Been told not to look at Cams or anything as the R34 GTR's don't really need them for that power, but i don't know how true this is)

Thanks guys!

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Do the R34 GTR's come with N1's as standard?

Thinking about buys a 34 GTR ;)

No. Normal R34GTR turbos are ball bearing with ceramic tubines. The N1's have ball bearings and steel turbines, look very much like GT2530's and are capable of around the same power.

Cheers

Gary

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
Posted

I would stick with what you have at the moment and see what afm voltages you get...if they are not close to going full scale I would leave them.

The reason for this is if you went for z32s and they were only measuring upto say 30-40% of full measurement scale or voltage, you are not using the full input resolution of the ECU and technically you are losing precision in your tune..The ECU uses an A-D converter to convert voltage into a digital number. Not analogue. So voltages are either rounded up or down to the nearest value. If the ECU has an input range of 0-5v and you are only using 2v of that range then between each corresponding digital value would be higher and the resulting error would be higher..

An analogy to this,

If wanted to measure the length of something that was 87mm in length and you had either:

1. A 1 metre ruler with 1cm divisions

or

2. A shorter ruler say 300mm long divided into 1mm increments

The best option would be option 2 for measuring the 87mm. The 1m ruler would see it as (9cm) 90mm and not 87mm

Hope this makes sense..

Richieb Collaborator

Richieb

Posted
Posted

Oooops, sorry, mis-read it... HP..! i got 303.1Kw at wheels similar plus internals and flowed head, flashy filters etc, plus FPR plus good boost controller plus more too.

N1's are superb Road 'bines tho, stick with them. there are a few variants as well i am told too!!, but i unclear what the variants are.

Good luck, enjoy the results, its a good start u got going there.

Richieb Collaborator

Richieb

Posted
Posted (edited)

My orig's maxed out at just short of 300RWKW. btw.

R34's have smaller turbo potential than orig GTR ones too. Get some Orig GTR32's, more power from them, but still ceramic exh impeller am afraid , but better turbos than R34's

Edited by Richieb
Got Boost? Experienced

Got Boost?

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I would stick with what you have at the moment and see what afm voltages you get...if they are not close to going full scale I would leave them.

The reason for this is if you went for z32s and they were only measuring upto say 30-40% of full measurement scale or voltage, you are not using the full input resolution of the ECU and technically you are losing precision in your tune..The ECU uses an A-D converter to convert voltage into a digital number. Not analogue. So voltages are either rounded up or down to the nearest value. If the ECU has an input range of 0-5v and you are only using 2v of that range then between each corresponding digital value would be higher and the resulting error would be higher..

An analogy to this,

If wanted to measure the length of something that was 87mm in length and you had either:

1. A 1 metre ruler with 1cm divisions

or

2. A shorter ruler say 300mm long divided into 1mm increments

The best option would be option 2 for measuring the 87mm. The 1m ruler would see it as (9cm) 90mm and not 87mm

Hope this makes sense..

Thanks a lot mate that does make sense (as an engineering student your analogy was right on the money to what i've been taught lol)

Thanks everyone else for your input also, ill leave the stockers and see how they fare and swap them out if necessary! Thanks!

Mike__ Enthusiast

Mike__

Posted
Posted
My orig's maxed out at just short of 300RWKW. btw.

R34's have smaller turbo potential than orig GTR ones too. Get some Orig GTR32's, more power from them, but still ceramic exh impeller am afraid , but better turbos than R34's

sorry to hijac but...

Is this correct? Thought the standard 34 gtr turbos would flow more than the stocka 32's?

mike

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
sorry to hijac but...

Is this correct? Thought the standard 34 gtr turbos would flow more than the stocka 32's?

mike

No standard 34 turbos are slightlty bigger than 32+33 and better because they are ball bearing but still have ceramic turbine wheels .

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

R32 - 0.42a/r compressor

R33 - 0.42a/r compressor

R34 - 0.53a/r compressor

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

very useful for comparing stock turbochargers, lists all specs, wheels, trims, housing etc

Richieb Collaborator

Richieb

Posted
Posted (edited)

Got that one paul, but the opinion here is stiil the best ones are the R32's.

R34 spool up quicker, but run out of steam. The Compressor wheel is smaller.

Edited by Richieb
700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted
I would stick with what you have at the moment and see what afm voltages you get...if they are not close to going full scale I would leave them.

The reason for this is if you went for z32s and they were only measuring upto say 30-40% of full measurement scale or voltage, you are not using the full input resolution of the ECU and technically you are losing precision in your tune..The ECU uses an A-D converter to convert voltage into a digital number. Not analogue. So voltages are either rounded up or down to the nearest value. If the ECU has an input range of 0-5v and you are only using 2v of that range then between each corresponding digital value would be higher and the resulting error would be higher..

An analogy to this,

If wanted to measure the length of something that was 87mm in length and you had either:

1. A 1 metre ruler with 1cm divisions

or

2. A shorter ruler say 300mm long divided into 1mm increments

The best option would be option 2 for measuring the 87mm. The 1m ruler would see it as (9cm) 90mm and not 87mm

Hope this makes sense..

+1 :spank:

What topic was being discussed?

OH..AFM's....... :laughing-smiley-014:

RB20 or RB25 just plug in ...that is what I have gone with.

But if you got $$$...Nismo all the way..at least you have bragging rights...... :banana:

Bumblebee Experienced

Bumblebee

Posted
Posted

ive still got my stock afms... made 287.8kw @ all 4's... that was on 15psi.. after that i ran tad over 17psi which is slightly over 300kw @ all 4's and afrs were still good...

they look like stock afms anyways.. as were injectors and fuel pump lol.. the stock GTR gear is pretty serious stuff really

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
hmm sell the z32 afm's. sell your standard ones. use extra money for a haltec or my personal favorite (short of 10g plus motec) the new wolf v500.

just buy something that uses a map sensor and be done with it

MAP sensor and multiple throttle bodies are not a good mix for a road car.

Cheers

Gaery

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