Jump to content
SAU Community

Roll Cage 'fabraications'

Flea

By Flea,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Flea Community Regular

Flea

Posted
Posted

Hey Peoples,

I picked up my car from Rai Curry's workshop 'Fabraications' on the weekend.

I had a 1/2 roll cage installed into my car (R34 GTT)

When I picked my car up I was so happy with their work I thought I would put this post up so if other people are thinking about getting cages fitted they can go to someone who does a great job.

The work was done in the time frame they gave me, the work was second to none & the customer service was great.

Here is Rai's website: www.rollcages.com.au

And some pictures of the great work.....

post-29217-1207547895_thumb.jpgpost-29217-1207547910_thumb.jpg

post-29217-1207547922_thumb.jpg

post-29217-1207547934_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213820-roll-cage-fabraications/
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

From the pics it looks nice :rofl:

But (and i will freely say i am NO expert) isn't the horizontal/harness bar (the one the harness is resting on) a little too low, thus creating too much angle to the seat? It is my understanding that the harness should come off the seat as straight as possible, but not quite 90degs, to prevent the driver's spine from being crushed in an accident.

Merli Grand Master

Merli

Posted
Posted
From the pics it looks nice :blink:

But (and i will freely say i am NO expert) isn't the horizontal/harness bar (the one the harness is resting on) a little too low, thus creating too much angle to the seat? It is my understanding that the harness should come off the seat as straight as possible, but not quite 90degs, to prevent the driver's spine from being crushed in an accident.

You're absolutely correct.

http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/general/0...dule_I_Q208.pdf

The recommended angle is between 0-10 degrees from horizontal, but upto 40 degrees is "acceptable". Most people would weld in a horizontal bar between the rear legs to use as the harness mounting point.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Personally i would have scrapped the horizontal bar in the main hoop and gone for a harness bar. I would have thought that since you run a race seat and harnesses they would have given you a means to more safely mount your harness.

Also, for a club car, i find the horizontal bar in the main hoop and diagonal in the main hoop restricts access to the back seat. Even if you dont have a back seat, its always handy to be able to put rims, tool boxes, backpaks etc back there for the trip to the track/away. CAMS accept the diagonal in the main hoop or between the rear legs, both comply

So not saying one is better then the other, just a few things i considered when i got my cage that others may want to consider. Your cage with teh exception of the lack of harness bar is a little more serious then mine...but i wanted to maintain a level of practicaloty from mine. And keeping access to the back seat was a big part of keeping it practical

This is like what i am talking about

gallery_462_50_86078.jpg

gallery_462_50_159699.jpg

gallery_462_50_86074.jpg

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted

A half cage like the above - is it legal for street use or does it have to be engineered?

I have read on the VIC roads website a little about legalities of a half cage but I don't think the information was 100% clear, was a while back now too so I forget the specifics

Can someone clarify?

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

teh cage in my pic could easily be legal. The design of the cage is legal, however it is not legal in my car. To make it legal i need to fully removed the rear seat, rear seat belts and take the car to Vic Roads and have it registered as a two seater. No engineering required provided you get the correct paperwork when it is made. Brow Davis in Bayswater are in a good position to help you get your carge legal as not only does David sit on the CAMS Safety Review Committee, but is also a consultant to Vic Roads.

But the rules are the same for everyone and any experienced cage builder will be able to guide you when selecting your cage and ensuring its is still legal on the street

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted

Thanks Roy

Refreshed my memory, now I remember you must remove standard belts and seats and have VIC roads inspect

Just with that, so it would be via appointment at VIC roads and basically they just change the registration to a 2 seater and issue a new rego sticker?

They won't start going through the car and start picking on other things will they? lol

Also whats a cage like that worth?

Flea Community Regular

Flea

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Good work :P

I didn't realize you were going to such an extent with your car for track use. Good to see and can't wait to see you back out there :rofl:

Hey Ant,

Good to hear from you. I've been planning the cage for....well TOO long! So to have it in finally is great.

I'm amazed at how much the handling has improved, who needs a GTR?! :P J/K!

I can't wait to get back on the track, it's been a while!

Flea Community Regular

Flea

Posted
  • Author
Posted
A half cage like the above - is it legal for street use or does it have to be engineered?

I have read on the VIC roads website a little about legalities of a half cage but I don't think the information was 100% clear, was a while back now too so I forget the specifics

Can someone clarify?

Hey Abu,

This is what I did:

To have it road legal you need to remove your rear seats & seatbelts, take it to Vic roads and register the car as an official 2 seater.

Then if you decide to put in a 1/2 cage it will be legal.

As is my understanding. Troy put down the same info but worded better! :P

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted
Hey Abu,

This is what I did:

To have it road legal you need to remove your rear seats & seatbelts, take it to Vic roads and register the car as an official 2 seater.

Then if you decide to put in a 1/2 cage it will be legal.

As is my understanding. Troy put down the same info but worded better! :P

haha thanks for that man

I'm keen to know a little more about the VIC roads inspection process if you don't mind

Whats involved? Do you call up and make an appointment, explain to them you want to get the registration changed from a 4 seater to a 2 seater then just turn up on the day?

I assume they physically check the car to make sure the belts have been removed as well as the seats but do they check anything else?

What if your car is loud or low, pod and cooler for instance will they pick on those other things or just inspect the car and let you be?

Any fee's involved?

Thanks again :rofl:

Flea Community Regular

Flea

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Thanks Roy

Refreshed my memory, now I remember you must remove standard belts and seats and have VIC roads inspect

Just with that, so it would be via appointment at VIC roads and basically they just change the registration to a 2 seater and issue a new rego sticker?

They won't start going through the car and start picking on other things will they? lol

Also whats a cage like that worth?

Hey Abu,

maybe I can help you with your questions....

When I went to vic roads I just rocked up (no appointment needed) filled out a 'change of vehicle description' form (as I remember) simply put on the form 'rear seats and rear seat belts removed'

the Vic roads officer told me to move the car into the inspection bay....She stuck her head in the back of the car to inspect that the rear seat and seatbelt had been removed. Went inside & tapped a few things into the system & issued me with a new rego sticker.

It was easy and painless.

Then if you ever get pulled over by the police and they ask why the rear seats are out, just tell them to check the system as you have registered it as a 2 seater.

My cage cost me approx $1,000.00 not a bad price considering the work thats involved.

I hope this helps you!

Flea.

Flea Community Regular

Flea

Posted
  • Author
Posted
haha thanks for that man

I'm keen to know a little more about the VIC roads inspection process if you don't mind

Whats involved? Do you call up and make an appointment, explain to them you want to get the registration changed from a 4 seater to a 2 seater then just turn up on the day?

I assume they physically check the car to make sure the belts have been removed as well as the seats but do they check anything else?

What if your car is loud or low, pod and cooler for instance will they pick on those other things or just inspect the car and let you be?

Any fee's involved?

Thanks again :P

No fees involved (surprising for VIC roads!)

And nothing else was inspected on my vehicle other than what I was there for.

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted

ah thanks for that Flea, thats a big help

Doesn't sound hard at all hey, I might get that done

I hate driving around with people in the back as my car is low and the wheels start to scurb plus I want to set the car up for track/use it more for track so would be best to rip the seats out and slap a cage in

Thanks again :D

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Be warned though, you may not have too many problems getting the car registered as a 2 seater and all legal with the cage. But should you evcer want to remove the cage and get it registered as a 4 seater again then you need an engineering certificate. This means new seat belts etc etc... AND an inspection of the car. So those mods then come under the eye of the engineer and given the way they feel about mods that mess with emissions you could well be proper farked :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...