Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey new to the forum, friends told me about this awesome network of skyline enthusiasts as I'm having teething probs with my white 2000 rs stagea.

A/T light on dash first appeared a few months ago when i was on the freeway only when I put my high beam on.

then nothing untill last week when my car almost stalled at lights when i wound my windows up (can't remember if i had my lights on). then at random every 25kms on the freeway no lights middle of the day. all these times the front drive was engaged, had to pull over to almost a complete stop before it disengaged.

then same day in tunnel at 80kms i put low beam on and A/T light flicked on/off but didn't engage front drive.

any ideas????? I have no clue, (resevoir in rear is full) neither did the car electricians when i got my pinkslip.

any ideas or simular experiences you could share will be most appretiated.

Cheers

then same day in tunnel at 80kms i put low beam on and A/T light flicked on/off but didn't engage front drive

What do you mean by 'font drive didn't engage'?

Have you checked alternator bushes? Could be that they're on the way out and you're losing electrical power, have seen mention of similar symptoms as that somewhere.

You might find this thread useful, tells you how to run an A/T diagnostic on the ECU.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3605428

Hey Allan, welcome to the forums.

I'm not sure how much you know about Skylines and Stageas, but the Stagea is based on R33 Skyline GTS4/GT-R running gear, so it is constantly variable and can't be disengaged simply by removing the fuse (or wiring in and flicking a switch) like in the R32 range.

Basically, there is usually very little drive going to the front wheels, and drive is only transferred forward as and when there is loss of traction at the rear wheels.

What state are you in? We might be able to point you in the direction of a workshop or fellow owner more in touch with Stageas (and imports in general) who should be able to help.

could be the typical nissan wiring ghools at work i had a sim problem few years back it was a blown fuse causing the problems ie push in lighter and high beam would come on and couldnt turn it off let lighter out off go lights.so id be checking all the fuses first

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey Allan, welcome to the forums.

I'm not sure how much you know about Skylines and Stageas, but the Stagea is based on R33 Skyline GTS4/GT-R running gear, so it is constantly variable and can't be disengaged simply by removing the fuse (or wiring in and flicking a switch) like in the R32 range.

Basically, there is usually very little drive going to the front wheels, and drive is only transferred forward as and when there is loss of traction at the rear wheels.

What state are you in? We might be able to point you in the direction of a workshop or fellow owner more in touch with Stageas (and imports in general) who should be able to help.

I'm in nsw, sydney, marrickville, advan performance is close but they charged me $1000 for a full service, seems too pricey for me.

Dont know a great deal about nissans, but when the a/t light comes on something definitley engages. revs go up as though it puts itself in neutral for a second then back into gear.

I'd like to find out the problem partly myself because i do want to learn more about my car. and i want to save dosh at present. Im thinking what mike40sydney said is on the right track, it's most likely a electrical/ wiring prob, but the fuses are fine.

can you tell me what it means when the a/t light come on the dash?

what does a/t stand for? all terain, auto traction, auto trans????

Somewhere in here is the fuse layout for the ones behind the coin box. Have you checked them?

NickT could find the diagram and post it up for you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...