Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys!

just purchased myself a cooling pro stealth fmic (600x240x60) and have just installed it today after a few hours. the only hacking i needed to do was a little bit of the intrusion bar to hug around the corners of the fmic and the hacking of a support bracket on the bottom pipe (would not give me that little extra room to line it up with the stock piping no matter how hard i huffed and puffed).

my warning is mainly for series 2 owners - the first bend of the top pipe prevents your front bar (that is, if you have stock) to go on properly due to the fog light and the housing on the left side (looking at the front of the car). i thought i could hack the housing on an angle but realised it was also the rear of the fog light that actually hit the bend as well and thus i could not line up the right side (looking at the front of the car) of the bumper. hacking the housing that was built into the bar is one thing, but hacking the actual housing for the fog light is another.

after an hour sitting in my thinking chair, i decided to remove the stock fog lights + indicator assembly and hack off the housing built into the bar itself to allow room for that damn bend! now i had the problem of an ugly space where the fog lights + indicator assembly should be, so what i did was pop down to autobarn and bought myself a grill mesh and then bought gtr look-a-like indicators and fog lights. what i did was fill up that gap for the assembly with the grill and just cut out holes to fit in the new indicator and fog light. i left the bottom half as stock so basically, rather then having the fog light + indicator assembly, i now have a grill with a fog light and indicator - pretty much a 400R front bar imitation.

just a note - most or some other fmic piping actually go UNDER the fog light + indicator assembly. just weird when i encountered this problem. had me scratching my head for hours taking apart random things and putting them back in thinking i alligned something off.

APART from that debacle, no problems thus far. im quite happy with the fmic. its definitely living up to its stealth because the bottom pipe hides directly behind the bottom section of the front bar and the core itself is actually hiding behind my plates. only noticable if you look hard enough. i get no turbo lag since the pipes use the existing stock pipes so you get the shortest cooling route possible. i have installed 3 other types of fmic(s) and after a test drive the boost does take longer to pick up speed. with this setup, it spools maybe a little faster if not the same. bottom end rpms have alot more pick up (a little but noticable).

i can only assume, but this kit was really meant for the series 1 owners since their bar has more room behind it but anyone with an aftermarket front bar should have no problems.

hope this helps some of you s2 owners thinking of getting one of these.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214746-cooling-pro-stealth-fmic/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey , Dude thanks. I was about to buy one! i use to have a BLitz LM and i sold it for 1,000 but now i want it bak! :D i only had it for a week !!!!!!!

also could you please post up pics plz :O

Edited by geraus
Hey , Dude thanks. I was about to buy one! i use to have a BLitz LM and i sold it for 1,000 but now i want it bak! :D i only had it for a week !!!!!!!

also could you please post up pics plz :rofl:

Is it me or does this make no sence? :P Why buy a Blitz to sell and get a Stealth? Unless you were after some $? Hehe.

Im guessing, in this case if your like me and have an S2 with a different OEM bumper (pictured) Then possibly you wont have the same effects? As there looks to be bugger all behind the indicator, heeeeaps of room. Can only buy one and try i guess!

post-38698-1208149376_thumb.jpg

hey guys!

just an update, i ended up cheating after all because i did not like the look of the mesh - too much attention in my opinion as i like to keep my car as stock looking as possible. i ended up fitting in the stock lights with some very minor modifications to the assembly. here is just the one picture of the whole thing and i apologise for the poor quality. if anyone wants to see the actual modifications up close just post here and when i am free i will take pictures so you can see up close what i did. i did not take pictures of the grill because i was not going to keep that look.

post-32455-1208154486_thumb.jpg

as you can see, most of the fmic hides under the front bar which in a way gets less wind but since its winter i do not think its a problem thus far although since the fmic is rather wide it may make up for that loss in height. i will have to wait for summer and see how it handles. other fmic(s) i have installed uses the bottom pipe area for extra height for the core (hence why the bend usually goes under the fog light + indicator assembly).

i thought about it today and looked at black warriors tutorial (which was a big help by the way) and noticed that since his core was actually shorter in width than mine, the bend that gave me trouble actually bends earlier to hug the corner straight under the head light. the cooling pro actually bends later or else the piping diameter is comprimised! just thought some people would appreciate an answer to why as i hate not knowing why haha.

Nice paint job on your bar.

was this aimed at me? and are you refering to the sun reflection? as my front bar is in great factory condition.

Edited by Silver_R34_GT-T

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...