Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

ive taken my car to a company here in brisbane to get a haltech installed, but its been 3 weeks so far and they keep saying they are waiting on haltech to make / finsihing testing some plug,

and im annoyed. surely their is people out there that have done this and not had this issue>

my cars an auto so i was told the haltech was the best option for the new ecu / tune

thanks in advance,

Bryn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214833-haltech-into-a-r34/
Share on other sites

If you have the new e11 V2 yuo will just have to wait as Haltech has not developed the plug for this model as yet.

If you read HPI you will notice that they used the haltech as a piggy back computer in their 34 and spliced into the factory wiring for all the signals.

Hope this helps!!! :thumbsup:

bryn, go to them and say u want them to wire it in (for no extra charge) or you will be taking ur car elsewhere (if u do this i have a contact for you) as they took ur car on the belief they could do it, which is NOT the case as has been shown to date.

i called haltech then and htey said they wont be finsihed developing this plug till friday or monday, so im looking at another week with no car.

and shane, ive spoken to a few people on here, who really recommned NOT letting them re wire as they dont have a clue how to do it.. :thumbsup: i think i will hjsut have to wait till next week, unless i find another ecu worth installing and go else where . IVE BEEN totally kept in the dark,

i was told a few days and now its been a few weeks, and i was calling them daily and last week was told to stop calling, and they will call me with updates.. :)

i got suckered

nope handed over no money, and they have done nothing but apparetnly dyno my car to determing the ecu was f**ked..

if i go get it, im still stuck with a car that wont rev over 3000rpm, and 3 warning lgihts..

then what do i do'? wait till next week when haltech release the plug and go back to them?

I'd get the car, there's no way Haltech are going to be on time....plus if you get the car I can have a look for you as well and most likely save you a few grand....even if the ECU has really gone kapoot, I've got a manual ECU with a spare ignition circuit in it.....think about it.

go somewhere that have half a clue and they can wire the ecu in for you

or give kyle from 6boost a call (0410 730 598) and see what price he can do for you on an autronic sm4 - not sure if they do plug ins for the 34 yet, but he'll know and he'll guide you

If it was my car, i would be getting a remap of the stock ecu. There is much debate over using aftermarket ECU's with auto boxes in skylines, i wouldnt be taking the risk unless i was shown that the haltech has the software to retard the ignition timing on gearchange. The stock ecu has two fuel maps for low and high octane fuel,two ignition maps, closed loop, vct control, idle control and knock control.All these functions have been well developed by the factory. The only other option i would be considering is a plug in Autronic sm4, but im not sure they do it for the r34.

PS i doubt the stock ECU has s#$t itself, i just too unlikely unless there is something else we dont know about

totally agree with Adriano, I also say the workshop in question may be giving bryn bias information in an effort to gain maximum profit, because there is no way for about 2k extra the haltech is a better option over the remapping the stock..

I queried said mechanic on this and his response was "well the haltech has a 32bit processor, the stock is only 8bit" LOL

fair enough adriano, but according to this workshop, the ignition part of my ecu is f**ked. and say that a remap or piggy back thingy wont work as this part of my ecu is f**ked..

thas why i was told to get the haltech,

Edited by Silver_R34_GT-T

as the others have said, go get your car and limp it to another workshop

and work out your ECU plans. if you get any ECU installed a "wire-in" this means your stuck with a mangled loom and a ECU

if you want to un-do it, restore it to factory, change it later on its going to be a hefty cost to un-managle the loom & whatever else is changed.

if they insist in a wire-in job get a boomslang loom adapter to protect your original harness and make the wire-in job easier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...