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Royal Purple Oil

dekodE_

By dekodE_,
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dekodE_ Apprentice

dekodE_

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys,

I'm about to do an oil change on my Series 2 R33 GTS25T, and I've come across a New Zealand supplier who sells Royal Purple oil, now I'm completely stuck on which Royal Purple oil to purchase, they range hugely in price $10-$25

The cheaper oil:

(Royal Purple Motor Oil 10W30 1QT (946mls)

(Royal Purple Motor Oil 10W40 1QT (946mls)

(Royal Purple Motor Oil 20W50 1QT (946mls)

Then you have the stuff which is about $20-$25 per quart:

Royal Purple Racing Oil 21 5W30 1QT (946mls)

Royal Purple Racing Oil 51 20W50 1QT (946mls)

Royal Purple XPR 10W40 Racing Oil 1QT (946mls)

Currently I'm running a Shell Helix 5w40 Oil, so I assume I should go for the 0w30? Or is that to thin? Am I alright to use the cheap royal purple, and is it still good stuff? And which weight should I use? My car is a little loud on idle, turbo is does make some rattley noises. :cheers:

Also I assume i'll need 5 quarts? Or should I buy 6?

Cheers Guys

Edited by dekodE_
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216172-royal-purple-oil/
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sunnycoast Experienced

sunnycoast

Posted
Posted (edited)

To be totally honest mate, I have run Royal Purple in 2 of the 3 Skylines i have ever owned.

Royal purple is a really light oil which barely lubricates the internals thus giving you more power.

They said it increases power...yes...however, they compromise this by allowing the oil to be less restrictive "lighter/not as protective", which in turn allows ur internals to move quicker generating slightly more power.....

I would not use this is my car again... And i am not bagging it out.. I just believe its sh!t and makes ur engine very noisy too...

Hope my experience helps...

If i were you, i'd prob run Penrite "SIN" - Which is 100% Synthetic.... Great stuff :P

OH...BTW - You can get Royal Purple from Autobahn. - Secondly, your car should take anywhere from 4.5L - 5L...I usually put 4.7Ltrs in and run it for an hour around town...usually takes another 100ml.

Cheers.

Edited by SunnyCoast
sunnycoast Experienced

sunnycoast

Posted
Posted
This line doesnt make sense to me. Metal to metal contact would provide more resistance not less...

Ok - Picture walking through mud...you can't move very quickly can you?

Ok - Now picture walking down the street....

Which one is easier?

The les resistance from the lighter oil allows the internals to move faster. In this case, the lighter oil allows the parts to move quicker, however, because it is lighter, it doesnt give the same protection as a thicker oil.

Understand?

sunnycoast Experienced

sunnycoast

Posted
Posted (edited)
i use it in my gearbox and found it worked a treat. have to get some more soon actually.

The gearbox oil is fine. I just wouldnt go putting this in my engine....Done this too many times and found it to be complete crap.

Cheers.

Edited by SunnyCoast
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

What do you base "it's complete crap" on? Because obviously you know more than the people developing the oil.

Yes any thinner oil like royal purple will give you more power and probably more bearing wear too - but how much more? Does it shorten the average Rb's life from 300000klm to 270000klm?

What testing have you done and why do you think thin oil is crap?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

What do you base "it's complete crap" on? Because obviously you know more than the people developing the oil.

Yes any thinner oil like royal purple will give you more power and probably more bearing wear too - but how much more? Does it shorten the average Rb's life from 300000klm to 270000klm?

What testing have you done and why do you think thin oil is crap?

sunnycoast Experienced

sunnycoast

Posted
Posted (edited)
What do you base "it's complete crap" on? Because obviously you know more than the people developing the oil.

Yes any thinner oil like royal purple will give you more power and probably more bearing wear too - but how much more? Does it shorten the average Rb's life from 300000klm to 270000klm?

What testing have you done and why do you think thin oil is crap?

Ok...firstly learn how to not post twice. You only have to hit enter once (1)... - Thought as an admin you might've learned that by now...obviously they are using monkeys to do a mans job these days...crazy...

Secondly, i had to get a new camshafts (mechanic told me it was the oil i was using, and was backed up by other performance mechanics) because i used royal purple from 40,000km's to 130,000km's every 5,000km's... Now if that isnt testing, i really dont know what is.

Now go shut your hole wang chung!!!!

Thanks :blush:

Edited by SunnyCoast
Legumis Contributor

Legumis

Posted
Posted
Ok - Picture walking through mud...you can't move very quickly can you?

Ok - Now picture walking down the street....

Which one is easier?

I don't mean to flame but would a better analogy be a comparison between getting dragged face-first through mud or face-first over tarmac?

Cos it would make more sense; the tarmac MIGHT be easier, though its gonna hurt like hell and make you fugly.

donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
Posted
And i am not bagging it out.. I just believe its sh!t and makes ur engine very noisy too...

You seem a bit undecided!

I use royal purple in my liner and found its great all round - its not the cheapest stuff around but its supposed to be the shit. The gear oil is thicker than the Nissan stuff but makes everything much smother especially in my gearbox.

If you want real testing and not just 'my engine sounds noiser' there was a test done in street commodores a while back between pretty much every brand on the market, they did some experiment on a bearing and punished it to see which oil would protect it best - the royal purple was number1! With alot of the common brands getting bad reviews.

Back to the orignal post, Im pretty sure its the xpr 10w40 thats in mine

  • 4 weeks later...
DOHCTR Newbie

DOHCTR

Posted
Posted (edited)
To be totally honest mate, I have run Royal Purple in 2 of the 3 Skylines i have ever owned.

Royal purple is a really light oil which barely lubricates the internals thus giving you more power.

They said it increases power...yes...however, they compromise this by allowing the oil to be less restrictive "lighter/not as protective", which in turn allows ur internals to move quicker generating slightly more power.....

I would not use this is my car again... And i am not bagging it out.. I just believe its sh!t and makes ur engine very noisy too...

Hope my experience helps...

If i were you, i'd prob run Penrite "SIN" - Which is 100% Synthetic.... Great stuff :)

OH...BTW - You can get Royal Purple from Autobahn. - Secondly, your car should take anywhere from 4.5L - 5L...I usually put 4.7Ltrs in and run it for an hour around town...usually takes another 100ml.

Cheers.

Hi Everyone,

As I was searching through google, i cannot believe i was reading this post.

In the least harsh and blunt way possible i will try and explain in detail all the things incorrect about your statement. I am not "having a go at you" i am simply trying to educate you and prevent other people from misinformation. Don't get me wrong i can understand why you thought the way you did.

For a start.....oil viscosities......If a ROYAL PURPLE oil is rated at 5w30 and a MOTUL oil is rated at 5w30 guess what? at the API and standards testing temperatures they are the same viscoscity, one is NOT thinner than the other.....

NOW, for the statement about Royal Purple being "thinner" causing "more engine wear" couldn't be more incorrect.... matter of fact it is the COMPLETE opposite. A thinner oil will decrease wear and decrease friction (within boundaries of manufacturers specifications)... here is a better suited analogy...If you were to run hard cheap tires they have little traction however they last longer (LESS FRICTION), if you used soft compound racing tires you have more traction but they wear quicker (MORE TRACTION).

Now in order to create more power in a combustion engine you need to increase volumetric efficiency (fuel/air mixture compared to total volumetric capacity) or decrease opposing forces, a thicker oil will not pass through clearances well and cause greater friction causing greater wear (similar situation as soft compound tires), however the thinner the oil the greater the lubrication and less friction, they claim more power as the engine is being lubricated BETTER creating less internal friction (which is an "OPPOSING FORCE"). A thicker oil should ONLY be used in a situation were your engine has been rebuilt to something other than manufactures specifications or your engine is suffering from extreme wear (even then ask your mechanic).

HOWEVER, there is a downside to an oil that creates a thinner film, although it lubricates better the film strength is weaker, so under prolonged extreme temperatures it is prone to dispersion of the film promoting engine wear (This is why usually the use of thinner oils employ synthetic esters and oils, that are developed to combat these issues compared to thinner petroleum based oils), however even race cars use a similar film strength, for spirited driving or even occasional track, there is absolutely nothing wrong with royal purple oils. Testing has proved them to be very good.

In conclusion, if you're running a streetcar and running the manufactures standards, you would be lucky to prove a difference between most half-decent oils. A base mineral oil that the local dealer supplies would be more than sufficient. Only in these extreme conditions are these oils needed, or the age-old issue of "having peace of mind" knowing you're using "the best" or something that by far exceeds those standards of what your manufacturer recommends.

About your camshafts, thats bad luck. However I highly doubt it was due to the brand or base of the oil you were using. An oil of the same viscocity regardless of brand (something half decent, Motul, Fuchs, Mobil1 etc) will not cause this much wear. Wether it was Nissan Basic Mineral oil, or the very best Motul 300V (if they were the same viscocity, unless it was under very high amounts of stress or in unusual temperatures, you would be lucky to prove a differance). If it were true it would be due to the viscocity used. Also if it were to be the oil, it would of affected other parts of the engine alot worse before it affected the camshafts.

Also an interesting fact considering everyone here is a Nissan fan (so am i even though i have a Honda) the Volumetric Efficiency i am talking about is in relation to fuel/air mixture compared to total volumetric capacity. A Forced induction engine is technically the only way to push Volumetric efficiency over 100%, all in all a naturally aspirated engine will only be able to run at best 100% volumetric efficiency which is almost impossible without air induction intakes like on the sides of Ferrari's. Thus, where the saying "There is no replacement for displacement" originates.

Sorry about the spelling and grammar, not the best, but I was in a rush and ended up writing a lot more than expected. Hope this helps.

Regards,

Andrew.

Edited by DOHCTR
  • 2 years later...

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