Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I looked up an old adjustable cam gear thread but couldnt find any information about the compatabilitys with the standard ECU.

Going by the post everyone got the best results on the RB25 with about 3 degrees advance?

Is this ok, and will I see any benefit on a Standard ECU? is it safe etc?

Thanks guys,

Bill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216356-exhaust-cam-gear/
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

I looked up an old adjustable cam gear thread but couldnt find any information about the compatabilitys with the standard ECU.

Going by the post everyone got the best results on the RB25 with about 3 degrees advance?

Is this ok, and will I see any benefit on a Standard ECU? is it safe etc?

Thanks guys,

Bill

Bill,

thats 4 degrees retarded on an R33 exhaust cam.

The standard ecu is ok, there is gain to be had.

Is it ok just to enhance the cam gear for the exhaust half of the engine as its often the most restrictive? I dont want to bother mucking around installing a intake cam gear, Ive heard custom works need to be done most of the time to fit new gears??

I doing the timing belt before I wack on the turbos and shit so thought it would be worth while??

Ive also heard that there is no increase for a r34 NEO ENGINE but I doubt that can be correct, its obvious fact cars are made to beand quiet and prevent detonation with the stock exhaust for regular users. We all change this with big exhausts and so on, so I doubt this can be true. To make it quiet there has to be some restriction and cam gears are an obvious choice.

I for some reason remember DAN666 coming up with this result, I also remember him trying to figure out why his car was not pushing to his target powermark i.e restricted.

Ill give it a go with a cheepy JJR cam gear and she how she fairs, cant give no result, at least it will look hot lol

Ive also heard that there is no increase for a r34 NEO ENGINE but I doubt that can be correct, its obvious fact cars are made to beand quiet and prevent detonation with the stock exhaust for regular users. We all change this with big exhausts and so on, so I doubt this can be true. To make it quiet there has to be some restriction and cam gears are an obvious choice.

I for some reason remember DAN666 coming up with this result, I also remember him trying to figure out why his car was not pushing to his target powermark i.e restricted.

Ill give it a go with a cheepy JJR cam gear and she how she fairs, cant give no result, at least it will look hot lol

hi decimate

my R33 certainly made some gains mid and top end at or around 4deg retarded. (seems worthwhile changing to an adjustable exh. cam gear if you are replacing the timing belt since you are already in there)

the neo powered stagea only lost power up top. if you are trying to move the curve around they will do something but if you are looking to make more top end i suspect you will spend money better saved towards cams.

Edited by wolverine

The thread you found was probably the 1 I posted up a couple of years ago from my old '95 R33 GTS-t.

Here is the dyno sheet I posted in that thread:

post-1296-1209289434_thumb.jpg

It cost me about $250 supplied and fitted (back when the yen was about 70) and was the best money I ever spent on the car (altho it was basically stock haha). The extra midrange was noticable as soon as I drove out of the workshop and it felt so much different to drive.

Edited by benm
I've read 10-15kw max power increase. I'd only do it after the main restrictions are removed (intake/exhaust/boost) or when doing the timing belt.

Let us know if you end up doing it :thumbsup:

CRD manage to squeeze an extra 8kw out of mine with just exhaust cam + new belt :D

  • 6 months later...

im thinking of getting an adjustable cam gear (exhaust) ive got all stage one mods done (full 3" xhaust, pod + CAI, front mount, heavy duty clutch, boost controller @ 10psi)

gonna get a safc soon, will a cam gear be worthwhile?

whats the average cost to get one fitted?

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...