Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Almost done removing the turbo's of an RB26, done it all myself to this point, proven quite painfull...

Question is, in order to drop the front turbo down, to get access to the lower manifold bolts i need to either move or undo the a/c line.. unless there is another way around this i havn't seen? I've got some pics attached of what it all looks like, any advice on where to move forward would be awesome! Thanks.

post-4555-1209547410_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217137-help-rb26-turbo-removal/
Share on other sites

is it only that bolt mount fouling? I'm pretty sure it will bend that much easily.

having said that I've never done turbos off a gtr with ac....

Well from what i can tell its only that one, the back of the turbo seems to move fairly freely. It isn't overly flexible, if i undo the main bolt and twist it then it will move but makes some hissing sounds as the gas escapes a little... lol

no just leave it bolted in and lever it out of the way. only needs to move a few mm by the looks of it.

btw don't you have further issues ahead? I'm pretty sure you need to remove rear turbo first or undo the oil and water line from the block (which is a bastard to put back later)

Yep..!! watch that compressor outlet pipe, mine was fragile, .......and needs the crack in it repairing,.... when I can locate someone to do it... without scalping my wallet..!

If only you were an SAU NSW Club Member... You could have had my one for free hs.gif

Get that back turbo out first from underneath - you do not need to slacken off the rear manifold.

The front turbo dump will be restricted by the rear turbo. Once it is out you will be able to play with angles a bit more.

You may first need to slacken off the front manifold (have been told you can do it without which I can believe after finishing the job).

Once I had everything slackened off and the rear turbo out I was able to angle the front turbo down past the AC.

Get that back turbo out first from underneath - you do not need to slacken off the rear manifold.

The front turbo dump will be restricted by the rear turbo. Once it is out you will be able to play with angles a bit more.

You may first need to slacken off the front manifold (have been told you can do it without which I can believe after finishing the job).

Once I had everything slackened off and the rear turbo out I was able to angle the front turbo down past the AC.

Thanks for that info mate ill give it a go!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...