Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PINGPINGPINGPINGs ~!!!

lol how can you question an official statement from nissan ? fair enough its not gospel but they have a lot to lose from lying lol. I'm sure they wouldnt want to give anybody anything to say bad about the GTR by lying

I dunno, I'll cop a lot of flack over this but 7:29 sounds a little too fast to be realistic. Remember the R33 breaking the 8 minute mark and then no one else being able to match the time? I just can't see the the R35 doing the 'ring that fast.

***PUTS ON FLAME SHIELD***

From what I understand the track conditions were improved compared to the 7'38" run the last time they were testing at the track.

Apparently, Mizuno is also engaged in continuous quality improvement on this car, re: performance attributes. This is definitely a good thing.

All further JDM and all US spec GT-Rs are getting different motor mounts with different bushings; I expect polyurethane leading to the 'claim' of harder engine mounts. There is also a harder transaxle bushing. The statement reads that these "small tweaks ...... stop the mechancial parts from moving under extreme cornering. It's detail like this that enabled the new 7 min 29sec... (Mizuno)". Also: "The new mounts make the car feel more together in extreme circumstances,' he said. 'We've also changed the spring rates front and rear – it's a minute change, they're just 0.1kg/sq mm stiffer. But it means the movement of the suspension and powertrain are more perfectly tuned."

So it looks like they have made some small adjustments to handling characteristics; and they don't look very expensive either. I am sure the original JDMs can probably be retrofitted / adjsuted with these pieces pretty easily.

thats a terrific effort, cant believe it, i was bragging to guys about the 7:38... The v-spec is gonna be wicked!

There probably will be a few bling pieces associated with Spec V, but...

The weight reduction is primarily through greater use of carbon fiber panels and light-weight race seats. These can likely be purchased after-market from Nissan or other. If people are going to autocross or track the car, then they will likely start pulling interior pieces out anyways, place a 5 or 6 point cage, and use race-spec seats anyways.

The engine tweaks can easily be done through the ECU. Cobb looks like there mapping method will be ideal for doing ECU modifications and keeping the Nissan maintenance coverage because the ECU can be flashed back to OEM (purportedly). It looks like the OEM transmission should be able to handle 600 ft/lb TQ pretty easily with little or no modification to the engine, just a tune.

If your racing the GT-R, your going to be replacing the clutches and a differential from time to time anyways. And lots of tiresbiggrin.gif

Carbon-ceramics are really only needed for race applications or if you are hot-lapping at the dragstrip. And who does that!!??*&! rolleyes.gif Although honestly, I have seen two after-market vendors are offering the same or similar brake pads (i.e. carbon ceramics) for significantly less than OEM.

I'd rather get the base model and make the journey myself. Hell, you can adjust boost to 1 bar (14.5 psi), do nominal weight reduction (e.g. get rid of the complimentary tools under the mat, lose the weight of 11 speakers), and swap some bushings and easily run high 10second 1/4 mile times.

aslong as they use the same start finnish line as lemans used to I will call it a mark... start finnish on the whip end of the straight after the first 'corner' isnt fair.

aslong as they use the same start finnish line as lemans used to I will call it a mark... start finnish on the whip end of the straight after the first 'corner' isnt fair.

I'm confused mate, what do you mean "same start finish line as Le Mans"? It's a different circuit?

Phoenix, i assume you've popped over from NAGTROC?

looks like you've got some good solid info there, where bouts did you come across it all?

Not from NAGTROC.

Yes, I have done some research. I enjoy the journey of building very fast street-legal cars, but I really have just looked at all the vendors in Japan and seen what they have posted over the past year. I have seen a ceiling on the clutch packs. I am not entirely clear on what the engine can handle at the limits, but 600 - 615 ft/lb TQ at the crank is probably all I will need to accomplish my goals. I want the car to have some longevity too.

I prefer science over guessing. I plan on making this car run a 10.8 - 10.9 second 1/4 mile on street tires, maybe some sticky R compound BFG drag radials, if needed.

This is a quote from a post I made in the British forum.

This is theory. I used very few data points and 3 variables. I considered atmospheric pressure a constant, if you will, because I don't have enough dyno variable sets to incorporate into an equation. [please explain how to use 1.01 in this formula...multiply or dividethumbsup.gif ) This is a RATIO / PROPORTION grid with a couple conversions. I had 2 data points with which to compare with the factory numbers. Not much to go on. When you consider that different types of dynos (dynapack / mustang & dynojet) are being used at different elevations, yeah sure, it's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination. Plus, people use different octane fuels and measure crank vs. wheel with the other confounding factor of what to use for drivetrain loss (15 - 25%). One other thing, Nissan obviously, did not provide the ideal baseline to work from, because most consumer cars are showing around 435 HP to the wheels. Even with a conservative 'drive-train' loss of 15%, your over 500 HP to the crank.

Additionally, the 'load-type' dyno (mustang / dynapack) requires accurate on-road aerodynamics and friction inputs and the 'inertia type' (dynojet) does not. I think the 'load-type' dynos are GAY, sorry, my personal opinion. I much prefer the dynojet for higher HP applications. Most tuners use the dynapack for comparing baseline (prior to modification) numbers to engine mod; it is fine for looking at change. Dyno jet will give a much closer real-world number.

In terms of the theoretical number projections, this is what I posted originally:

Boost TQ (to the crank)

(bar / psi) lb - ft

0.7 / 10.2 433

0.9 / 13 551

1 / 14.5 618.6

Motor Trend (K+N engineering)

Wheel 430.6 - 435.8 HP, 425.3 - 439.1 lb/ft (range of results)

Projected Crank @ 15% drivetrain loss 506.5 HP / 500.4 TQ

Motor Authority (Dynapack)

475 HP / 428 lb/ft TQ to hub

projected crank 550 HP, 495 lb/ft TQ

Autoblog (Mustang and Dynagay)

406 HP / 414 TQ (Mustang)

452 HP / 448 TQ (Dynapack)

BEST CAR Magazine (JDM [consumer])(Dynapack)

485.665 HP / 428/1 lb/ft TQ (hub)

BP car (running 95-96 US octane rating)

457.7 HP / 444 lb/ft TQ (wheel)

520.5 HP (projected crank)

JSpec Connect (Dynapack)

460 HP, 456 lb/ft (hub)

I believe there is a general consensus that the power of the engine has been under-reported for whatever reason. The numbers given by the factory are probably more accurate (with a proportion given to drivetrain loss) as being wheel horsepower rather than crank horsepower. That is why the numbers seem skewed. Give me better data points, I'll give you better projections.

Conclusions: I don't think it is unrealistic at all for the stock components to give between 550 - 600 ft/lb of TQ (to the wheels) as you approach the drivetrain limits (as given by MCR and Endless) of ~ 14 - 16 psi on the turbo. Heat and efficiency limits considered. And of course, they probably beat the piss out of the car as well.

aslong as they use the same start finnish line as lemans used to I will call it a mark... start finnish on the whip end of the straight after the first 'corner' isnt fair.

The timing method is standardised by Sport Auto magazine and has become the defacto standard for Nurburgring timing across the board and has been adopted by almost all manufacturers.

The start/finish line is no longer used for timing because it is dangerous. The Nurburgring is a public road and cars are constantly entering the track from that area. If you're going all out on a flying lap you're likely to crash into someone at that point.

The timing method is standardised by Sport Auto magazine and has become the defacto standard for Nurburgring timing across the board and has been adopted by almost all manufacturers.

exactly

regardless of where the 'proper' start/finish point is, the time Nissan quotes is using beginning and end points consistent with all recent times recorded for other supercars

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...