Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To start with, you need to do some more reading.

Poncams are cams...they are made by Tomei and these cam-shafts are called Poncams as they are their baseline general performance increase product.

Cam gears will allow you to move the torque curve to a better position.

Cams will increase torque or efficiency at certain levels, there is many different cam profiles available and each does a different thing.

What mods do you have?

The car already has exhaust,ebc and clutch. Looking at modifying the car for the least amount of money for the max amount of power without scarificing reliabilty. Will definetly add computer - they say with computer,ebc, exhaust and 1bar boost i should get about 250rwkw.I was told with cams gears as well i might get 270rwkw ,( no cams were mentioned though ). Any more power , then thats where more bucks are needed like turbos, injectors, fuel pump etc. I don't want to spend excessive money to get a little more power if u know waht i mean . A pfc and tune will cost me 1500 and cam gears about 1500 . So for 3k i could get up to 270 rwkw .On a stock engine i think 300rwkw with be about the max even with aftermarkerket turboes, inj and pump added ( which would cost another 5k for 30 kw.

cheers

To start with, you need to do some more reading.

Poncams are cams...they are made by Tomei and these cam-shafts are called Poncams as they are their baseline general performance increase product.

Cam gears will allow you to move the torque curve to a better position.

Cams will increase torque or efficiency at certain levels, there is many different cam profiles available and each does a different thing.

What mods do you have?

The car already has exhaust,ebc and clutch. Looking at modifying the car for the least amount of money for the max amount of power without scarificing reliabilty. Will definetly add computer - they say with computer,ebc, exhaust and 1bar boost i should get about 250rwkw.I was told with cams gears as well i might get 270rwkw ,( no cams were mentioned though ). Any more power , then thats where more bucks are needed like turbos, injectors, fuel pump etc. I don't want to spend excessive money to get a little more power if u know waht i mean . A pfc and tune will cost me 1500 and cam gears about 1500 . So for 3k i could get up to 270 rwkw .On a stock engine i think 300rwkw with be about the max even with aftermarkerket turboes, inj and pump added ( which would cost another 5k for 30 kw.

cheers

Inexpensive, Fast and Relliable. Pick any 2. :happy:

Your not going to get anywhere near 250kw with the stock turbo, let alone 270. 1bar of boost on the stock turbo isn't going to do wonders for it as well.

I am running 11psi, Front mount, Full 3" exhaust, POD filter and PFC. Last dyno, which was without the PFC (had a S-AFC 2) got me 217kw. And I am quite sure it was a fairly high reading. I would expect I have something more like 200-210kw.

People running bigger turbo's, like the GT-RS are netting around 250rwkw, maybe a bit more. And thats with bigger injectors and a tuned PFC.

Hate to tell you mate but $3k isn't going to get you 250kw. Not by a long shot.

:)

Mate not only do you need to factor in a bigger turbo to get the 250rwkw number, you'll also need upgraded fuel pumps and depending on what injectors you go for (or remain standard) the fuel pressure will need fiddling...

$3k? maybe look at a r34 smic and finish the rest of your exhaust off, hi-flo cat dumps etc... Or spend it on handlign and the car will feel heaps better

"On a stock engine i think 300rwkw with be about the max even with aftermarkerket turboes, inj and pump added "

I assumed from this statement he was talking about the RB25DET's issues with 300kw and above. Aftermarket turbo's pump and inj on an RB26 would net far more than 300kw wouldn't it? Not sure either but don't the 26's easily handle above 300 with stock internals?

  • 3 weeks later...

my r32 gtr has 241kw @ all 4s at 1 bar with stock turbos, greddy cam gears, hks dumps, bee-r front pipe and custom 3inch cat back with straight pipes, apexi pfc, trust 100mm fmic

tuned and powered at protek automotive

maybe this helps

and you will need around 6gz+ to get 300rwkw on a gtr and thats including all the mods to your gtr

best upgrade for standard GTR ( well R32 at least ) is programable ECU, adjustable cam gears on standard cams ( 4 degrees retard on inlet 2 degrees advance on exhaust if i remember correctly )then tune lifting boost. Boost level will be dependent on the turbos the car has, not sure whats a safe level for R34 turbos?

This is going to set you back over 2k though.

  • 4 months later...
Inexpensive, Fast and Relliable. Pick any 2. :thumbsup:

Your not going to get anywhere near 250kw with the stock turbo, let alone 270. 1bar of boost on the stock turbo isn't going to do wonders for it as well.

I am running 11psi, Front mount, Full 3" exhaust, POD filter and PFC. Last dyno, which was without the PFC (had a S-AFC 2) got me 217kw. And I am quite sure it was a fairly high reading. I would expect I have something more like 200-210kw.

People running bigger turbo's, like the GT-RS are netting around 250rwkw, maybe a bit more. And thats with bigger injectors and a tuned PFC.

Hate to tell you mate but $3k isn't going to get you 250kw. Not by a long shot.

haha my 32R has 700cc injectors, walbro fuel pump, t -piece, cat back exhaust, pods and is making 246kwatw on 1bar with a daughterboard

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...