Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

has anyone worked out if you can wire in any of the digital data displays like the autronic or motec?

ViPEC make their own....ones going in my car along with a fully optioned V88 soon.

  • Replies 895
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I am pretty sure they are Australian engineering and designed. So, who gives a toss where they are made. Holdens are "Aussie made" and most of the small car range is made overseas.

Anyway, great ECU!!!

....But the Holdens aren't completely engineered or designed by Australians barely come close, after GM's take over most cars were built for Vauxhall then re badged as Holden's, Until the VE Commodore no Holden was "Aussie Made" for 37 years I really find it annoying when people say it's Aussie Made so it's better and what not to be honest I'd rather have my clothes made by an Asian, my cars made by the Japanese or Americans (I know ppl are going to hate me for that one), and my barbecues tended by and Aussie (Except for the ones who like steaks medium to well-done steaks should be juicy not bricks)....ok I'm prob getting a little carried away here...All I am trying to say is that I think some cultures are more developed in a certain way to do things better then others and I would rather have it done by a different culture to do it well then another one just to say it's my own...unless it's cheaper (Which it's not in this case) oh and for everyone is complaining about $1000+ for used PWRFC, search these forums you can get a new one for the same price or less (I'm not talking about the FOR SALE section ether)

....come to think I forgot about the Italians.....and the Germa.....ANYWAY you get my point

....But the Holdens aren't completely engineered or designed by Australians barely come close, after GM's take over most cars were built for Vauxhall then re badged as Holden's, Until the VE Commodore no Holden was "Aussie Made" for 37 years I really find it annoying when people say it's Aussie Made so it's better and what not to be honest I'd rather have my clothes made by an Asian, my cars made by the Japanese or Americans (I know ppl are going to hate me for that one), and my barbecues tended by and Aussie (Except for the ones who like steaks medium to well-done steaks should be juicy not bricks)....ok I'm prob getting a little carried away here...All I am trying to say is that I think some cultures are more developed in a certain way to do things better then others and I would rather have it done by a different culture to do it well then another one just to say it's my own...unless it's cheaper (Which it's not in this case) oh and for everyone is complaining about $1000+ for used PWRFC, search these forums you can get a new one for the same price or less (I'm not talking about the FOR SALE section ether)

....come to think I forgot about the Italians.....and the Germa.....ANYWAY you get my point

I challenge you to find any Vauxhaul that can last as long as a VN Commodore. All of the early H series Holdens were made in Aus. All of the early V series Holden Commodores were made in Aus and the late ones made in America. Small car range comes from Vauxhall.

Motec, Autronic, Haltech and Microtech computers are all made and designed in Australia. These are the best computers on the planet. Why would it be any different for this one?

As for steaks - maybe you just keep buying shit steak. Get yourself a good grade 5 Wagyu or King Island Rib Eye and cook it well. I can tell you now it won't be a brick.

And on that note, a good steak is like a good car. Vauxhall make all the Woolies steaks (and the steaks you'll find at most mainstream butchers), whereas Holden have the gourmet steaks that melt in your mouth.

PowerFC's are well priced for what they are. They have their limits though. Many of them. The things is, though, people will always complain about the price of things. It's the Aussie way. Most people don't understand the hard work that goes into these things and expect to just pay for raw materials. :P

That's a bit of a worry, because there is no means of controlling knock and no means of indicating it like you would witha Power FC. Not sure if I wanna cough up the extra $$$ for the V88, plus adapter loom. It then puts me in the ball park of other ECUs. Other than that, the Vipec does look impressive :P

Adaptor loom is around $350 from memory. I am not sure what ball park it is, you paying for a very user friendly and well priced ecu in comparison to Motec for example. Brett West who tuned my car can not speak highly enough of them. He had an Evo 8 in his workshop and he worked on it for weeks trying to get it right (and thats $$$). The M800 in the Evo 8 would still hunt for idle while my V88 on my GTR would be idling away smoothly. A plug in no longer exists for the Autronic ecus (and you will have to run wasted spark) so you still need to wire up a adaptor loom.

Have I convinced you yet?

Mike

I challenge you to find any Vauxhaul that can last as long as a VN Commodore. All of the early H series Holdens were made in Aus. All of the early V series Holden Commodores were made in Aus and the late ones made in America. Small car range comes from Vauxhall.

Motec, Autronic, Haltech and Microtech computers are all made and designed in Australia. These are the best computers on the planet. Why would it be any different for this one?

As for steaks - maybe you just keep buying shit steak. Get yourself a good grade 5 Wagyu or King Island Rib Eye and cook it well. I can tell you now it won't be a brick.

And on that note, a good steak is like a good car. Vauxhall make all the Woolies steaks (and the steaks you'll find at most mainstream butchers), whereas Holden have the gourmet steaks that melt in your mouth.

PowerFC's are well priced for what they are. They have their limits though. Many of them. The things is, though, people will always complain about the price of things. It's the Aussie way. Most people don't understand the hard work that goes into these things and expect to just pay for raw materials. :dry:

I wasn't talking about WHERE it was manufactured I was talking about WHO it was manufactured by until the VN commodore Holden cars hadn't been designed and engineered and by Australian's for awhile, and has for the steak thing I know what a good steak is I just prefer mine medium-rare to rare, I find that a lot of Aussies like it medium to well done which I think personally ruins the steak, And as for Waygu beef man I was sucking up Matsusaka and Kobe beef when I went to japan and lived in hong kong like there was no tomorrow (Obviously someone elses expense), No way I'm going to actually buy that with my own money, I'd rather buy a ......powerfc..lol, haha and nice comparison between steak and cars...man this thread is making me hungry, Although your right about the Aussie way thing tho I noticed that, The Asian way (well chinese way) is that well spend the money if we think it's worth it, however I noticed we tend to be attracts to Chinese ripp offs which obviously have inferior quality and it takes a few of those before we realize that if we just bought one high quality original it would have saved us grief, money, and hassle going through serval knock offs

#DEFINE ECU 1

#DEFINE CARTALK 0

void int main(int)

{

while(discussion)

{

if __talk(CARTALK) { return; }

discussion++;

}

};

DONT DO IT MAN!! if you run that code you'll be stuck in a while loop and you'll NEVER get out......i hate java...I need to change my studies lol

Adaptor loom is around $350 from memory. I am not sure what ball park it is, you paying for a very user friendly and well priced ecu in comparison to Motec for example. Brett West who tuned my car can not speak highly enough of them. He had an Evo 8 in his workshop and he worked on it for weeks trying to get it right (and thats $$$). The M800 in the Evo 8 would still hunt for idle while my V88 on my GTR would be idling away smoothly. A plug in no longer exists for the Autronic ecus (and you will have to run wasted spark) so you still need to wire up a adaptor loom.

Have I convinced you yet?

Mike

Thanks Mike. I'm convinced that Vipec ECUs are a good option for me and superior to some of the options. I guess I just need to decide if knock control and losing wasted spark are worth the extra $$$ over a normal V66. So how much extra will it be? $350 for the loom and then whatever extra the V88 is over the plug-in (prices are deep in this thread somewhere)

Hmmmm.. I'm not chasing huge power from my RB26, just want a reliable 250-300kwatw eventually (once I replace turbos etc).

What the hell happened to this thread by the way?

Thanks Mike. I'm convinced that Vipec ECUs are a good option for me and superior to some of the options. I guess I just need to decide if knock control and losing wasted spark are worth the extra $$$ over a normal V66. So how much extra will it be? $350 for the loom and then whatever extra the V88 is over the plug-in (prices are deep in this thread somewhere)

Hmmmm.. I'm not chasing huge power from my RB26, just want a reliable 250-300kwatw eventually (once I replace turbos etc).

What the hell happened to this thread by the way?

No worries.

Ring up a dealer and find out on price, PM me if you like and I can tell you exactly what I paid.

Mike

Hi there,

I'm after an aftermarket ECU for my R34 GTT Triptronic Auto, would this suit my needs or would a Haltech Piggyback be better suited to my application?

after seeing the article in HPI i would probably put an emanage ultimate in one over the haltech.... the gains were piss poor.

Hi there,

I'm after an aftermarket ECU for my R34 GTT Triptronic Auto, would this suit my needs or would a Haltech Piggyback be better suited to my application?

you can run a V44 wire in to run the engine (ign and inj only)

Hi there,

I'm after an aftermarket ECU for my R34 GTT Triptronic Auto, would this suit my needs or would a Haltech Piggyback be better suited to my application?

Nistune remap ftw :wave: I love mine.

OK, I have some good news. I emailed Ray Hall about the knock control and this is what he said :wave:

Hmm I think my ECU choice is now cemented :/

The Vipec ECU have just had a firmware update (4.2.0). One of the changes was to add knock control to the V44 and V44 based plugin ECU. As V44 has no hardware to directly read the signal from the cars knock sensor, an external amplifier is needed. The signal from the amplifier is then read by the V44 using one of the spare analog inputs.
ViPEC make their own....ones going in my car along with a fully optioned V88 soon.

Oh really??? I was told that they don't... Hmm, could you give us a bit more info on this, I'm quite interested! :wave:

OK, I have some good news. I emailed Ray Hall about the knock control and this is what he said :wave:
The Vipec ECU have just had a firmware update (4.2.0). One of the changes was to add knock control to the V44 and V44 based plugin ECU. As V44 has no hardware to directly read the signal from the cars knock sensor, an external amplifier is needed. The signal from the amplifier is then read by the V44 using one of the spare analog inputs.

Hmm I think my ECU choice is now cemented :/

did he say what kind of external amp was required?

Hmm I think my ECU choice is now cemented :wave:

did he say what kind of external amp was required?

I asked him that question (waiting on reply). If there isn't one, I will make one and share the schematic :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...