Jump to content
SAU Community

Safc Are They Worth It?

kidafa
 Share

Recommended Posts

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

Im trying to decide If its going to be worth buying a SAFC for the stagea. First up at the moemnt its stock except for a Electronic boost controller and a FMIC. These are all I plan to do for the moment, but I probably will install a more free flowing exhaust sometime in the future.

The only real reason Im tempted to install a SAFC is to improve fuel economy slightly. Truth be known power gains are not really of any concern as stock it had enough power behind it, especially coming from my first car a Hyundai Sonata hahah! (Yes stag is my 2nd car :D )

So a few questions:

How much will I be looking at to get the SAFC tuned?

Will I gain much in fuel economy?

Will A SAFC be ok or will I be better of with a SAFC2? (As i have Hi and Lo setting of boost)

The reason I'm unsure about getting one is Im not sure how much fuel I will save and I would sort of like to be able to draw a line somewhere with how much money I throw at this car.

Cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218224-safc-are-they-worth-it/
Share on other sites
chuckie Mentor

chuckie

Posted
Posted

G`day Chris having just put exhaust turbo back i would say do the free flow exhaust first ,no point in try to do other mod`s if you can not flow GASES,stock exhaust is a block let it flow somethink, some of the lad`s have gain 15 + kw from that a lone.good luck ,cheer` chuckie

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

Ive installed an SAFC neo($400), dyno tuned($300), better power, but does nothing for fuel economy because SAFCs on Stageas are only effective in open loop, ie high throttle. In closed loop the ECU will read the O2 sensor and adjust fuel mixture accordingly no matter what the AFM is saying, to a point. My dyno tuner didnt even bother with the low throttle settings on my SAFC.

Ive found the best way to improve fuel economy is a good set of platinum plugs.

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

yeah, all depends when the ecu goes into open loop, probably around 20 to 40% throttle. So the SAFC will work when under power, but not cruising. If you do an experiment and sit on highway speed, try to lean out SAFC as much as possible, the ecu will quickly readjust back .

explained better here: http://www.turbo240.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=18

Mr_RS4 Rising Star

Mr_RS4

Posted
Posted

exactly right^^^^^ It helped my afr's at higher loads and helped with power (made 160kw at all 4 with just zorst and fmic 10psi) but fuel is no better really. I'm going to do a manual conversion soon and go with an aftermarket ecu. Hoping this will help.

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks to mcnamg I allready have Splitfires and a pretty fresh set of plugs....

Do as Chuckie said and finish building your exhaust to get rid of the back pressure in the system.

If you're after better fuel economy change your coils to Splitfires and throw in a fresh set of plugs.

leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted
Thanks for that chuckie, As i stated im not really after a power gain from the SAFC so dont really want to do a zhorst at the moment...

Trying to see how much fuel id save ect....

one of the 1st mods on any vehicle is to piss off the standard exhaust, more so on a turbo car, you say you want to address your fuel consumption well about the best way to do that is to install a well made quality system from the turbo back, you will notice an immediate improvement, then look at your tuning avenues.

goodluck.

IMPORTD Grand Master

IMPORTD

Posted
Posted

kidafa are you in WA? should of bought my car. would of saved you a lot of effort :)

I have SAFCII, high flow cat back exhaust, profec B and splitfires lol

Whats your fuel economy now?

I'm geting around 480kms per tank and thats boosting every now and again...

Will be interesting to see what you get with each mod install.

RSFour Collaborator

RSFour

Posted
Posted

My experience with a safc2 was very positive. With an exhaust, air filter,fmic etc. I was averaging 360km on a full tank. I had the S-AFC tuned and boost increased to 10psi (bleed valve) and the economy went up to 420km+ with a nice increase in power. I then replaced the o2 sensor and the economy went up to around 450km per tank.

Mine was definitely tuned with low throttle settings.

I'm currently using an e-manage, which does more or less the same job.

  • 2 months later...
kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well its time to bump this thread....

Ive had so many mixed answers about getting a SAFC to improve fuel usage... I see many posts that include people recomendind a SAFC to improve. But on the other hand many people say it wont be worth it due to them only working properly on full throttle.

I've spoken to onme of the tuners from Graham West Workshop and he said its not worth it, While many people on here say it is and some say it isnt...

Current mods are:

Boost controller (high set at 10psi)

FMIC

Splitfires

Getting at most 400k's out of a tank on my s1 1997 rsfour :D

chef_stagea Grand Master

chef_stagea

Posted
Posted

kid.. i rekn stagea girls display pic says it all :D unluckyy! harden up get outa the bike shop n earn sum real $ :banana: for what ya gna spend on mods n stuff.. zorst grand at the least. safc.. bout half that to get it tuned and installed.. for the extra 30km...(1 day of driving if not less) its probly not worth it! smartes move would be to buy shares in bp! :P it all rapes us once a week atleast!

leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted

i run a neo safc it didn't give me better fuel consumption it gave me 18 extra kw with the same consumption,what improved my consumption to 480-500 was a locally built s/steel split f/dump with full 3 1/2'' system

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...