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Hi Guys.

I have a little plan with my new Stag,. the RS-Four V, to make more then 800 hp.

I will buy a HKS 2,8L strokerkit (Support 1200 hp), cams, cam-gears, springs, bigger valves, get the top ported, a HKS SPL51 Kai turbo.

Clutch will be a Exedy trible, Nismo water and fuel-pump.

What more do i need, i ask about importend parts to make this, i know all about fueling, ECU and stuff like that, but engine-parts in the RB25DET.!!

Edited by Stagea Denmark

HKS T51R SPL is the 1000hp turbo

HKS T51R KAI is the 800hp turbo.

I would say dry sump setup if you are going to be spending that type of money.

Strip the interior.

Cage.

And the best of luck :P

800hp+ out of a 25? :D

Is that even possible? Wouldn't you be much better off flicking the 25 and starting over with a built 26 or even a 30/26?

Where is the differend, building a 2,5, 2,6 or 3.0 liters engine, the Strokerkit is build for the RB26DETT aswell.!!

Thank you for allowing me to provide you with a quote for the products listed below. Let me know if you want us to ship them to you. Take care.

Qty = 1, Nissan Skyline ARP Pro Series Main Studs GTR RB26DETT ARP 2000

Qty = 1, Nissan Skyline (89-98) ARP Head Studs RB20/25 DET head stud kit

Qty = 1, Nissan Skyline Exedy Lightweight Racing Flywheels

Qty = 1, Nissan Skyline TOMEI Metal Head Gaskets RB25DE(T) 88.0-1.2mm

Qty = 1, Nissan Skyline TOMEI Valve Springs R33 RB25DE(T) A-TYPE

Qty = 1, Nissan Skyline TOMEI Pro Cams RB25/RB20 SOLID IN 260-9.25

Qty = 1, Nissan Skyline TOMEI Pro Cams RB25/RB20 SOLID EX 260-9.25

Qty = 1, Nissan Skyline TOMEI Timing Belts RB26/RB25/RB20

Qty = 1, Nissan Skyline TOMEI Adjustable Cam Gears Set RB20/25/26

Qty = 1, Nissan Skyline TOMEI Rb28Kit Stroker Kits 86.5 BNR32/BCNR33/BNR34

Products $8,875.54

Total $8,875.54

Where is the differend, building a 2,5, 2,6 or 3.0 liters engine, the Strokerkit is build for the RB26DETT aswell.!!

well, torque, for a start. Go for a RB30 block, grab one of the new 3.4lt stroker kits and slap on the biggest child-swallowing sized tubo you can find

step 3 - profit!!

well, torque, for a start. Go for a RB30 block, grab one of the new 3.4lt stroker kits and slap on the biggest child-swallowing sized tubo you can find

step 3 - profit!!

nice one, anon...

But yeah definitely go for an RB30 (obviously a 3L block) to start. Then if you want it bigger, stroke it. Will allow you to spool up a turbo much quicker, as well as more torque down low. No poin starting with a 2.5 when you can start with a 3.0.

nice one, anon...

But yeah definitely go for an RB30 (obviously a 3L block) to start. Then if you want it bigger, stroke it. Will allow you to spool up a turbo much quicker, as well as more torque down low. No poin starting with a 2.5 when you can start with a 3.0.

Correct, i know, but we have some strange rules in Danmark, you are not allowed to tune your engine, even not drive with a open air-filter box.

So, i have to do it on a standard RB25 block, and make the max out of this engine.

This treat was about what to be aware of, what to change in the engine, i know the oil and water pump have to be changed to Nismo, what more.!

What kind of turbo-setup i will make, i am not sure, a big HKS turbo, or a twin turbo setup, to make a faster spool.!

Edit: After searching the internet, i found out the RB30 Block fit together with the top from a RB25, then i can get my car approved and make it legal in Denmark, i also found out, i can get a Nismo400R engine.!!

Edited by Stagea Denmark

yeah... if you were going to change to a 3.0l block, noone would even be able to tell, except for the power.

Realistically you should be asking these questions in the forced induction performance area, as it has nothing to do with stageas, and everything to do with forced induction performance. I think this thread should be moved.

You will also find that if it were in that area, you will get a lot more replies with a lot more useful information.

Realistically you should be asking these questions in the forced induction performance area, as it has nothing to do with stageas, and everything to do with forced induction performance. I think this thread should be moved.

You will also find that if it were in that area, you will get a lot more replies with a lot more useful information.

But none of the kitteh pics.. :D

drama.jpg

hey mate, if your talking 800hp at the wheels then i dont know how long a rb25 block will hold up and i'd be looking at a rb26 n1 block for that power, also 260 degree cams are abit small, u would be expecting 272 and around 10.5mm lift for that power. Bolting a 800hp turbo on doesnt mean u will make 800hp either, u will need the 1000hp one for 800rwhp.

u will need a ati balancer, jun/tomei oil pump, n1 water pump if your gonna rev it alot, rear head oil drain, massive 10L baffled sump and every other possible mod for a rb engine to push that power.

if your talking 800hp at engine then u still need most of that stuff but it will be much easier to achieve, thats why every gtr with a t51r isnt making that sort of power, its more than the sum of the parts to push those figures. You will also need to run it on race fuel if your planning on a reliable 800hp. The gearbox will be useless and u either need a 20k holinger or ppg dogbox (around 15k all up), diff will not be so good either, also axles/unijoints need to be upgraded, gtr stuff at a minimum. brake upgrade also is a good idea

trust me there is alot more to upgrade than just the engine if u want that sort of power, driveline wont last 5 min as it is.

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