Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm in need of a new turbo and want to hear some opinions. Should I hi-flow my current turbo, or should I buy a HKS GT/RS kit from Japan. I want good power but good response on the street. Obviously the hi-flow is a cheaper option so what do I get as a bonus with the GTRS? Does anyone else have these turbo's on their r34?

Cheers, Matt.

Im also looking for feedback on the GTRS when installed in a 34. It's the most likely route i'm willing to take at the moment (Slide seems to have a reasonable price), but just wanted the run down on response times and how streetable it is etc..

Also stock fuel pump and injectors should be fine at this level of modification? Currently tuned to 202rwkw at 9psi (i think its the stock actuator isn't holding boost at top end), so i suppose with a GTRS kit i could achieve around 230rwkw? Does this sound reasonable?

Mods are:

Pod

3" (to cat) -> (cat back) 4" exhaust

Hi-Flow cat

Splitfire coilpacks

Hybrid Cooler

Turbotech BC

Apexi PFC

Sorry for the half hi-jack yellow submarine. :P

-Daniel

Edited by nitestalkr
Im also looking for feedback on the GTRS when installed in a 34. It's the most likely route i'm willing to take at the moment (Slide seems to have a reasonable price), but just wanted the run down on response times and how streetable it is etc..

Also stock fuel pump and injectors should be fine at this level of modification? Currently tuned to 202rwkw at 9psi (i think its the stock actuator isn't holding boost at top end), so i suppose with a GTRS kit i could achieve around 230rwkw? Does this sound reasonable?

Mods are:

Pod

3" (to cat) -> (cat back) 4" exhaust

Hi-Flow cat

Splitfire coilpacks

Hybrid Cooler

Turbotech BC

Apexi PFC

Sorry for the half hi-jack yellow submarine. :(

-Daniel

Had a slide highflow, see my comments above :P

I'd be thinking along the lines of GTR pump and fuel reg, 480cc injectors minimum....550cc are good as with the GTRS you'll be chasing more Kw just to make use of the better flow and efficiency of the turbo :D

Boost drop on an R34....well that can plague the best of us for reasons unknown. If only it was as simple as actuators :P

GCG Hi-flows are a banger.

Same with the GT-RS

I'd just go on price at the end of the day personally. Whichever is cheaper as from what i've seen here results wise there isnt a lot between the two

Thanks for the advice guys.. Ill have to look into GCG more as i haven't really looked at what they have to offer.

The fuel system suggestions have definitely been taken on board as well.

Would still be a few months off these mods, but i guess i have plenty of time for research hey.. :whistling:

Cheers again

-Daniel

PS: Dan, So you have tried changing actuators with no luck? urgh.. This upsets me.. :whistling:

Edited by nitestalkr
Thanks for the advice guys.. Ill have to look into GCG more as i haven't really looked at what they have to offer.

The fuel system suggestions have definitely been taken on board as well.

Would still be a few months off these mods, but i guess i have plenty of time for research hey.. :whistling:

Cheers again

-Daniel

PS: Dan, So you have tried changing actuators with no luck? urgh.. This upsets me.. :whistling:

You name it, it's been changed....last ditch option is to play with the exhaust cam and see if anything can be gained there.

Someone also mentioned a HKS gt 25/40 for quick response and good top end power, has anyone used one of these before? How was it?

Steer clear of the 25/40. Poor response and no more power than the GT-RS.

If I was in your situation i would be looking into a GT3071R, very good results popping up on these forums recently with this turbo.

really up to your budget id say... pay more and get hks rs - ive seen rb25s pull 310rwkw with aggressive cams and stock internals - i think it was stock manifold also! apparently hell responsive.. mind you, i dont know much about the high flow turbo - but with those prices you cant go wrong... plus, i dont know about you but id say 260rwkw is pretty sweet for street trim..

well thats my 2cents :)

Yes HKS turbos are great turbos,but the for the money you could buy a Garrett equivalent and have money left over for lines,dump ect..

GT28RS,GT3071 or GT3076.

Reading your posts i would suggest the GT3071. As it is both responsive and if you squeeze some boost into it can produce the numbers.

But by all means if you want to spend 2K+ on a HKS turbo.....

Hey mate, i'd go for a GTRS kit if i was you, my mate Joey has a highflow from GCG, but it died on him last week, which only last him about a year and a bit, the turbo gets abused a fair abit, because he runs it on track n stuff all the time, depend what you wanna do with the car, and suit the best setup that you need.

I went from highflow to GT2535....I like the HKS turbo's very impressed, so much so I won't consider farting around with a highflow on any of my cars in future, HKS all the way :D

Dan hows your cams going? all sorted? :P

even though mines a 33....My hi-flow died and now have a GTRS being fitted, I'll post results when done :)

i saw your died hi-flow last week :laugh:

it looks dead set.. DIED lol...

Hopefully you get it back soon. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...