Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Got an RB26/30 and a big single turbo - the bonnet is so close to shutting but just wont shut!

What have you guys done to get around that?

Im trying to avoid spacers, was wondering if there's a carbon bonnet or whatever thats got great clearance?!?!

Cheers :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219307-bonnet-wont-close/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Well yeah guess i could, but would really rather not :D

Good suggestion though

Translation: Shit didn't think of that.............. :)

Were is it hitting? Timing belt cover or the turbo.

If you get a genuine c/f bonnet it doesn't have the support frame, as it is very strong/stiff on it's own. I have a full c/f bonnet made by Custom Carbon (currently not fitted to car and at the mechanic's w/shop), it consists or 3 layers of carbon and resin, that's it, no fibre-glass, etc.

spacers are the only way to go...

on the xmember or on the bonned hinges

Looks that way unfortunatly

I rearranged my piping and put 10mm spacers in the hinges.

Cheers :D

Translation: Shit didn't think of that.............. :)

Were is it hitting? Timing belt cover or the turbo.

If you get a genuine c/f bonnet it doesn't have the support frame, as it is very strong/stiff on it's own. I have a full c/f bonnet made by Custom Carbon (currently not fitted to car and at the mechanic's w/shop), it consists or 3 layers of carbon and resin, that's it, no fibre-glass, etc.

Long time no speak!

lol, it was suggested by the mechanic and yeah - not a fan of the idea

Hitting turbo, im going to get prices on carbon over the next few days and if i go down that path (currently spacers is the go) ill spray it white to match

i dont know if anyone has thought of this, but any one thought of using LD28 engine mounts instead of hacking holes in bonnet subframes?

this was suggested from a retired mechanic who helped with my hilux rb30 conversion.

Edited by nizmonut
i dont know if anyone has thought of this, but any one thought of using LD28 engine mounts instead of hacking holes in bonnet subframes?

this was suggested from a retired mechanic who helped with my hilux rb30 conversion.

DIfferent mounts cant fix the problem, as the sump is about 4mm from the crossmember

then theres def something wrong my rb30/26 has 28ml of clearance from sump to the nearest piece of crossmember/steering rack....... and still have room for the 50x50 ml overkill strut brace over the top of the motor.

post-50030-1210855517_thumb.jpg

Edited by nizmonut
then theres def something wrong my rb30/26 has 28ml of clearance from sump to the nearest piece of crossmember/steering rack....... and still have room for the 50x50 ml overkill strut brace over the top of the motor.

post-50030-1210855517_thumb.jpg

Im guessing your isnt AWD, we have a diff/adapter plate to fit under the motor as well

Edited by Adriano
That must be a HIGH high mount manifold or is the turbo THAT big?

Cheers

Gary

Here's a pic :)

It was taken a while ago when it was dummy fitted together and before anything was done to the sump

Hey Steve!

Just occured to me now: WTF are you always bringing the auto supra to DECA. HTFU and enter the GTR, once it's up and running :)

PS: I want to see pics and details :thumbsup:

lol, the supra does so well down there though, 3L, small turbos - great response :)

Im organising a car trailer for the gtr so i can bring it to the deca masters ;)

Ill show you around it when i see you next, take it for a 'fully sick' lap of shepparton, basic details are;

3l bottom end

2.6 head with a little bit of work done

giant turbo

built bottom end

dry sump

triple plate clutch

talentless driver

ap racing brakes

tein suspension (got to get swaybars sorted asap)

there's more to it but thats the rough details :)

post-23559-1210894972_thumb.jpg

then theres def something wrong my rb30/26 has 28ml of clearance from sump to the nearest piece of crossmember/steering rack....... and still have room for the 50x50 ml overkill strut brace over the top of the motor.

post-50030-1210855517_thumb.jpg

Im guessing your isnt AWD, we have a diff/adapter plate to fit under the motor as well

+1

Is it RWD?

lol, I did predict this happening months ago when you showed pics of your worlds highest high mount. I would look at possibly a more suitable turbo/manifold combo which will not only clear the bonnet but make the car nicer to drive, but I know you have your heart set on the mack truck version. in which case I say just go the spacers and be done with it. it's the easiest cheapest way out of this problem.

lol, I did predict this happening months ago when you showed pics of your worlds highest high mount. I would look at possibly a more suitable turbo/manifold combo which will not only clear the bonnet but make the car nicer to drive, but I know you have your heart set on the mack truck version. in which case I say just go the spacers and be done with it. it's the easiest cheapest way out of this problem.

lol so true. Well its all a stop gap to be honest, got a spare rb26 at home that im going to get built and do the dry sump thing with aswel. It will have some -10's so clearance isnt an issue once i get that one back in

pffft bonnets are for sissies :down:

lol

Damn that's a huge turbo! :wub: How many Hp?

I wanted response with my rb25/30 combo, so i fitted the smallest recommended turbo GT3076R; also a fully built engine.

Love it! :ermm:

Can't wait till the next DECA, will be awesome.

How many hp? Oh, its got enough :whoops:

Ill see you at the next one :whoops:

Have you got it in the car yet?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...