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Bonnet Wont Close!

N1GTR

By N1GTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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drgnball34 Rising Star

drgnball34

Posted
Posted

god damit my carbon bonnet wont shut aswell!!!! The cam cover is hitting the second vent. We tried spacers but its just rasing the back of the bonnet and looks really crap aswell. Only option is to cut across half of that vent and then make up another bigger piece of mesh to cover the gap. Shoudnt look 2 bad. Will post pics once done

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=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
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good glad i am not the only one...but hey..may be OEM hood fits better...and don't have to cut out a hole....??

The vented section of a carbon fiber bonnet is flat at the lowest point of each vent so they are possibly worse for clearance.

I have to space my strut brace up now as the cam cover is hitting it as it rev's up. Just going to try 5mm plates first to see if its enough.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
The vented section of a carbon fiber bonnet is flat at the lowest point of each vent so they are possibly worse for clearance.

I have to space my strut brace up now as the cam cover is hitting it as it rev's up. Just going to try 5mm plates first to see if its enough.

Get an engine stabiliser bar thing man. Stop the engine twisting. The more the engine twists around, the less power makes it to the wheels.

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted
Get an engine stabiliser bar thing man. Stop the engine twisting. The more the engine twists around, the less power makes it to the wheels.

The engine moves what.. an inch and a half? Two? You think this will stop 500hp getting to the wheels? :/

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
The engine moves what.. an inch and a half? Two? You think this will stop 500hp getting to the wheels? :rofl:

It's not stopping 500RWHP getting to the wheels...

But how much force is required for you to PUSH the engine by hand that 1.5 - 2" sideways? Measure this amount... Then realise that it's pivoting on the drives side engine mount, Measure in a straight line from the engine mount point, to the passenger side cam cover.

This is your distance. Now multiply the force in newtons you required to push your motor 1.5 - 2" sideways, and this is how much torque you're losing...

Now I know it's a fair amount of force required, and at say 1M, if you need 100newtons to push it sideways, then you're loosing 100nm of torque from the fly... See how quickly it adds up? Get the brace...

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted
It's not stopping 500RWHP getting to the wheels...

But how much force is required for you to PUSH the engine by hand that 1.5 - 2" sideways? Measure this amount... Then realise that it's pivoting on the drives side engine mount, Measure in a straight line from the engine mount point, to the passenger side cam cover.

This is your distance. Now multiply the force in newtons you required to push your motor 1.5 - 2" sideways, and this is how much torque you're losing...

Now I know it's a fair amount of force required, and at say 1M, if you need 100newtons to push it sideways, then you're loosing 100nm of torque from the fly... See how quickly it adds up? Get the brace...

:blush: based on that theory then - if you brace it - how much force is required to move it by hand then? You won't budge it... so now you're losing ALL your torque from the flywheel?

What I am saying is the motor moves 1" to 2" yes, but then it stops - it happens in an instant - and now all your power is going through the drivetrain..

If you motor 'kept moving' (and spun around and around in the engine bay) then sure, you'd be losing power. Or am I missing something...?

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
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:blush: based on that theory then - if you brace it - how much force is required to move it by hand then? You won't budge it... so now you're losing ALL your torque from the flywheel?

What I am saying is the motor moves 1" to 2" yes, but then it stops - it happens in an instant - and now all your power is going through the drivetrain..

If you motor 'kept moving' (and spun around and around in the engine bay) then sure, you'd be losing power. Or am I missing something...?

Go break an engine mount, or just unbolt the passenger one. The motor will twist around a shit load more, response drops off, and so does overall power.

And if no amount of torque can shift the motor, then you won't lose any, because there is none being USED to move it no where.

And if someone sponsors me some L28 mounts, I'll change them over...

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
Im not exactly sure what you guys are hoping to gain by using L28 mounts,, there is no where to lower the engine.

I have plenty of sump to cross member clearance to lower my motor in the GTS-t.

The GTR I hear has a lot less room though...

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
I have plenty of sump to cross member clearance to lower my motor in the GTS-t.

The GTR I hear has a lot less room though...

Ditto, I've got may 20mm if I remember correctly.

Obviously there is a lot less room in a GTR due to using adapter plates for the sump etc.

felixy69 Rising Star

felixy69

Posted
Posted
The vented section of a carbon fiber bonnet is flat at the lowest point of each vent so they are possibly worse for clearance.

I have to space my strut brace up now as the cam cover is hitting it as it rev's up. Just going to try 5mm plates first to see if its enough.

ugh i don't care about my strut brace..i just don't want my Hood to be open like that .... it's 1) ugly, 2) ppl can do stuff to ur motor when parked 3) sh*t flies in...etc

=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
Posted
:( based on that theory then - if you brace it - how much force is required to move it by hand then? You won't budge it... so now you're losing ALL your torque from the flywheel?

What I am saying is the motor moves 1" to 2" yes, but then it stops - it happens in an instant - and now all your power is going through the drivetrain..

If you motor 'kept moving' (and spun around and around in the engine bay) then sure, you'd be losing power. Or am I missing something...?

I understand what is being said and I intend to get a brace or solid mounts but the rotational force on the engine is all about inertia being transfer d from the stationary parts into the moving parts and the friction between them. The rotational force of the engine is still there even if its solid mounted only you cant see it because the force or kinetic energy is transfer d to the cars chaise. The only way the amount of kinetic energy transfer could be reduced is by using lighter moving engine parts which will also reduce the amount of inertia at top revs etc.

Please correct me if I'm wrong or loan/give me money to get my car going and I will get dyno results of before and after.

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