Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh, rev limiters kill the pumps too. if you have a "soft cut" limiter its not as bad. but a hard cut. (power fc) wont be helping. your crank is ok. it just dont like the revs and or limiter. and if you are reving it past 7k id be getting a better balancer. a r33 gtr n1 one at least :starwars:

What would you define a "soft cut" and a "hard cut" as?

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Can someone tell me by looking at this list what partnumber would be needed for a r32 gtr with r34 n1 engine

probably somewhere near 400kw, and is going to be pretty much a race only car with next to no street use.

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...s/damnissan.htm

I've gotta get one of these before i put the motor in.

this is for Ati damper.

Cheers

Just as a side note the guy who builds (or used to build) kier wilsons GTR motors at wilall works at outlaw speed shop now. He says kiers car was running the "cheaper" of the 2 ATI balancers and was fine. So thats the one i went with.

This thread is making me want to buy an ATI balancer. Can i just put one on while my motor is out or will it need to be balanced with the engine internals again?

haha you and me both..

when they are back online (down for a big update)

http://www.horsepowerparts.com/

have them for a nice price... unless you can find better price

p.s. Cheers Alex..

Edited by Angus Smart
haha you and me both..

when they are back online (down for a big update)

http://www.horsepowerparts.com/

have them for a nice price... unless you can find better price

p.s. Cheers Alex..

I have seen those guys before, cheap prices. I ended up buying one from my local supplier for 700, more expensive but I support them as when i buy other parts like lots of speed flow fittings i can bring them back if they are the wrong ones etc.

My build if very basic with N1 pump but im going to balance the bottom end and run the ati balancer, hopefully will give me no dramas.

Cheers

This thread is making me want to buy an ATI balancer. Can i just put one on while my motor is out or will it need to be balanced with the engine internals again?

Just bolt it on, they are balanced from the factory, unless the machine shop used your existing balancer to rectify any other imbalances

I spoke to a bloke at Ross Tuffbond today in regards to one of their balancers. I think for many of our applications (mostly street driven sub 400kw cars), the Ross balancers are more than suitable. While the ATI ones seem like an excellent product, theyre also very expensive at over $800 in Australia. Although i have come across new ati balancers on ebay for about US$350 + $100 postage, but these were for chevy V8's etc. Im yet to get an email back from them as to whether they can get RB26 ones for the same price.

Anyway, the guy from Ross said they've developed a pulley that attaches to the harmonic balancer that drives an external oil pump used in a dry sump set up. Im thinking of heading down this path eventually in an effort to bypass the poor design of the Nissan oil pump drive. I havent researched it yet, but surely it can be done for less than the price of a Jun or Tomie oil pump (>$1500!!).

Anyone know anything about dry sump set ups???

Shaun.

ati balancer for 430-490 us for rb26 listed in the site i mentioned before.. horsepower parts

now as for drysump. i been looking at it for months, and i seen the costs of your typical normal setup

jun pump 1500

enlarged sump around 1000 ?

oil return mods 300?

now as for drysump.

the pump and the lines are the killer.

atleast 1000 for lines,

and atleast 1500 for a 4 stage pump and that only goes upwards.

tho you can source used pumps and systems from nascar teams in the states for rather cheep. and they have all the parts you need except lines...

check ebay usa for them..

i have since forgotten about drysumping for now

Edited by Angus Smart
ati balancer for 430-490 us for rb26 listed in the site i mentioned before.. horsepower parts

now as for drysump. i been looking at it for months, and i seen the costs of your typical normal setup

jun pump 1500

enlarged sump around 1000 ?

oil return mods 300?

now as for drysump.

the pump and the lines are the killer.

atleast 1000 for lines,

and atleast 1500 for a 4 stage pump and that only goes upwards.

tho you can source used pumps and systems from nascar teams in the states for rather cheep. and they have all the parts you need except lines...

check ebay usa for them..

i have since forgotten about drysumping for now

Yeah, i hear what youre saying. I just did 10 minutes of searching on this forum and quickly discovered that dry sump set ups are way out of my league.

There goes that idea!

Shaun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...