Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh, rev limiters kill the pumps too. if you have a "soft cut" limiter its not as bad. but a hard cut. (power fc) wont be helping. your crank is ok. it just dont like the revs and or limiter. and if you are reving it past 7k id be getting a better balancer. a r33 gtr n1 one at least :starwars:

What would you define a "soft cut" and a "hard cut" as?

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Can someone tell me by looking at this list what partnumber would be needed for a r32 gtr with r34 n1 engine

probably somewhere near 400kw, and is going to be pretty much a race only car with next to no street use.

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...s/damnissan.htm

I've gotta get one of these before i put the motor in.

this is for Ati damper.

Cheers

Just as a side note the guy who builds (or used to build) kier wilsons GTR motors at wilall works at outlaw speed shop now. He says kiers car was running the "cheaper" of the 2 ATI balancers and was fine. So thats the one i went with.

This thread is making me want to buy an ATI balancer. Can i just put one on while my motor is out or will it need to be balanced with the engine internals again?

haha you and me both..

when they are back online (down for a big update)

http://www.horsepowerparts.com/

have them for a nice price... unless you can find better price

p.s. Cheers Alex..

Edited by Angus Smart
haha you and me both..

when they are back online (down for a big update)

http://www.horsepowerparts.com/

have them for a nice price... unless you can find better price

p.s. Cheers Alex..

I have seen those guys before, cheap prices. I ended up buying one from my local supplier for 700, more expensive but I support them as when i buy other parts like lots of speed flow fittings i can bring them back if they are the wrong ones etc.

My build if very basic with N1 pump but im going to balance the bottom end and run the ati balancer, hopefully will give me no dramas.

Cheers

This thread is making me want to buy an ATI balancer. Can i just put one on while my motor is out or will it need to be balanced with the engine internals again?

Just bolt it on, they are balanced from the factory, unless the machine shop used your existing balancer to rectify any other imbalances

I spoke to a bloke at Ross Tuffbond today in regards to one of their balancers. I think for many of our applications (mostly street driven sub 400kw cars), the Ross balancers are more than suitable. While the ATI ones seem like an excellent product, theyre also very expensive at over $800 in Australia. Although i have come across new ati balancers on ebay for about US$350 + $100 postage, but these were for chevy V8's etc. Im yet to get an email back from them as to whether they can get RB26 ones for the same price.

Anyway, the guy from Ross said they've developed a pulley that attaches to the harmonic balancer that drives an external oil pump used in a dry sump set up. Im thinking of heading down this path eventually in an effort to bypass the poor design of the Nissan oil pump drive. I havent researched it yet, but surely it can be done for less than the price of a Jun or Tomie oil pump (>$1500!!).

Anyone know anything about dry sump set ups???

Shaun.

ati balancer for 430-490 us for rb26 listed in the site i mentioned before.. horsepower parts

now as for drysump. i been looking at it for months, and i seen the costs of your typical normal setup

jun pump 1500

enlarged sump around 1000 ?

oil return mods 300?

now as for drysump.

the pump and the lines are the killer.

atleast 1000 for lines,

and atleast 1500 for a 4 stage pump and that only goes upwards.

tho you can source used pumps and systems from nascar teams in the states for rather cheep. and they have all the parts you need except lines...

check ebay usa for them..

i have since forgotten about drysumping for now

Edited by Angus Smart
ati balancer for 430-490 us for rb26 listed in the site i mentioned before.. horsepower parts

now as for drysump. i been looking at it for months, and i seen the costs of your typical normal setup

jun pump 1500

enlarged sump around 1000 ?

oil return mods 300?

now as for drysump.

the pump and the lines are the killer.

atleast 1000 for lines,

and atleast 1500 for a 4 stage pump and that only goes upwards.

tho you can source used pumps and systems from nascar teams in the states for rather cheep. and they have all the parts you need except lines...

check ebay usa for them..

i have since forgotten about drysumping for now

Yeah, i hear what youre saying. I just did 10 minutes of searching on this forum and quickly discovered that dry sump set ups are way out of my league.

There goes that idea!

Shaun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...