Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

don;t worry the pits at wakie are nice and flat, not like oran park. no chocks required there

just park the car with handbrake off and out of gear when you finish. And take it easy on the cooldown lap, and do a lap or 2 of the pits if you think they are still too hot

  • Replies 547
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Abo,,,,I'm coming with the Handleys,,,so if you need help,,,just ask buddy.

I'll also bring both helmets,,,someone might want to buy them.

Steve-o with his own garage and heater,,,how gay,,,next car will be an MX5 you raving poof.

Neil.

another question do you take the back seats out before you go or do you take them out when your there, and if you do take the seats out, have you been pulled over by the cops and had any dramas.

i had my back seats out for almost half a year now, no dramas from the cops or anything, gotta put them back on this weekend, coz

im taking 2 mates :laugh:

do you bring something to chock the wheels for when you come straight off the track?

Nah

Abo,,,,I'm coming with the Handleys,,,so if you need help,,,just ask buddy.

I'll also bring both helmets,,,someone might want to buy them.

Steve-o with his own garage and heater,,,how gay,,,next car will be an MX5 you raving poof.

Neil.

lol, im not freezing at wakefield anymore. That place is as cold as ice this time of the year

Here's the list for scruitineering:

-No loose items in the cabin

-No fluid leaks

-Brake lights working

-Some tread left on tyres

-Secure panels

-no loose seats, seatbelts

-checking fire extingushers if there is any.

-checking helmets

-checking apparel if there are any

-wheelnuts

-cabin is fully sealed off

Guys is easier to fix any issues now, rather than on the day

Here's the list for scruitineering:

-No loose items in the cabin

-No fluid leaks

-Brake lights working

-Some tread left on tyres

-Secure panels

-no loose seats, seatbelts

-checking fire extingushers if there is any.

-checking helmets

-checking apparel if there are any

-wheelnuts

-cabin is fully sealed off

Guys is easier to fix any issues now, rather than on the day

Just another newbie question regarding the definition of loose items. Are items such as laptops, dataloggers and thermocouple readers etc allowed??..

I am assuming yes as long as they are strapped or tapped down and not free to move around the car??? I was going to make some brackets and use velcro straps, cable ties or gaffa tape???

Just another newbie question regarding the definition of loose items. Are items such as laptops, dataloggers and thermocouple readers etc allowed??..

I am assuming yes as long as they are strapped or tapped down and not free to move around the car??? I was going to make some brackets and use velcro straps, cable ties or gaffa tape???

Nope, sorry not allowed.

Anything that isn't welded, or screwed in is prohibited.

Edit: Unless you want to keep your dataloggers in the glove box (must be shut), that I will allow.

Nope, sorry not allowed.

Anything that isn't welded, or screwed in is prohibited.

If it is bolted does it need to be bolted to car body or will bolting to the console do??

Also with the Wakie license I take it we get that from Wakefiled admin people first thing in the morning before scruitineering??

If it is bolted does it need to be bolted to car body or will bolting to the console do??

Also with the Wakie license I take it we get that from Wakefiled admin people first thing in the morning before scruitineering??

Wakie license yes at the admin office. You might want to go through scrutineering first as you will be in one of the first groups and there will be a line.

As in bolting to the centre console?

If you could make a steal bracket and bolt it to a structural point that would be fine.

But it would be hard for me to say yes over the net for something I haven't seen. If you want we can talk about this over PM or if you come down to mikes the night before I can try and help you figure something out.




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...