Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would add a few things to the list;

Do a leak down test, that will confirm the basic engine condition

Check the spark plug colour directly after a power run, that will tell you if one or more cylinders are the source of the pining. Maybe isolate a lazy injector, if there is one

Drop the exhaust at the entry to the cat and do one quick power run, that will eliminate an exhaust restriction as the cause

Measure the boost before and after the FMIC, more than a couple of PSI difference indicates that there is a restriction there

Cheers

Gary

I got the turbo from GCG and paid for a gt3076r kit to suit an rb25 they did modify it to suit the standard dump pipe i have but this is part of the kit they have designed.

My z32 is a genuine one

We have tried dropping the exhaust at the cat to determine if that is the restriction and turned out it was not.

post-32096-1211261998_thumb.jpg

post-32096-1211262028_thumb.jpg

I got the turbo from GCG and paid for a gt3076r kit to suit an rb25 they did modify it to suit the standard dump pipe i have but this is part of the kit they have designed.

We have tried dropping the exhaust at the cat to determine if that is the restriction and turned out it was not.

The trigger for my question was your comment about using a JJR dump pipe. It seems that there has been likely a 0.7 A/R OP6 Hitachi type turbine housing matched to the GT30 rotating group. A genuine GT30 turbine housing should offer a far superior flow/efficiency capacity and would have been my first recommendation. EW if the funds are available, IW if running tight.

I think you'll find the restriction is within the housing itself, due to the internal dimensions and clearances available on the combination as fitted. Turbine inlet pressures likely climb out of proportion to boost, leading to rapid drop in cylinder scavenging and extra retained heat. There will be the source of your knock when trying to push either more boost or more timing into it. In essence, the turbine is having a tough time passing more mass flow than your 235kW without adversely affecting the operation of the engine.

That said, I do know of some hybrid type GT3071 combinations making pretty good power. Simon-R32 comes to mind.

Edited by Dale FZ1

hrmmmmmm. mona i believe had the same problem. im asuming that your tuner is going off the "knock reading" from the power fc.

you need to go to a tuner who is confidant. ie: one that listens to the engine with a chassis ear or the like, not the unreliable power fc knock reading. (if they are)

how old is the engine? and is it modified at all?

one question comes to mind.

how many km's has your car done.....remembering that in japan most cars regardless of who makes them spend more time stuck in traffic then actually driving.

my autech Gtr version 4 had only done a supposive 65 000 kms ..... you would assume being a 1993 R32 it would have only come out of the shed for a saftey check and maybe a fang every christmas. but no

upon pulling it to bits the mechanic told me the engine appeared like it had done closer to 250'000 kms.

after a block change to a newly rebuilt rb30(thats how badly worn the 26 block was) it went from a meassily 212 kw @ all four to 287 kw @ all four.

big difference a fresh block can make. granted it was 400 cc bigger as the dyno guy said.

but 400cc wont give you that bigger difference by itself.

Very good point by TO4GTR. How are they measuring knock? Puffs of black smoke out the exhaust, audible, PFc, electronic ear etc etc? If its striaght off the Power Fc then they need a better means of detecting knock. But being JEM i am sure they have the right gear and know pinging/detonation when they hear it

Just about eliminated fuel and spark:

Only other thing........have you tried tuning it without an air filter, is there any improvement? An apexi power unit should be OK.

Otherwise, the simple things are pretty much all used up and you'll have to listen to the doomsayers.

yes it was tried whilst air filter removed and no improvement. However it was suggested to clean with upper engine cleaner to clean carbon out of engine. Could this be the problem or highly unlikely. I will most likely clean it anyway it cant hurt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...