Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

just wondering if anyone knows what these are... They are in my 1989 R32 GTS-T four door. It did have an air purifier on the rear parcel shelf but i have removed it cause it was broken/couldnt figure it out. And im not sure if they are to do with that.. i doubt it though. They have ALOT of wires going into it... I want to fit a sub box standing up and it just doesnt clear these 2 boxes... any idea what they are for...

post-39806-1211325166_thumb.jpg

post-39806-1211325350_thumb.jpg

Edited by choku_dori
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220172-what-are-these-in-my-boot/
Share on other sites

i had that suspision too... i have removed hicas... but i was under impression r32 hicas was all mechanical... and ive removed the solenoid and the pump for it from engine bay... but maybe this box is to do with it...

I also recall reading somehwere there is a green wire i can cut to turn off my hicas bulb so it doesnt think there is an error.. rather than taking the bulb out i can leave it there and then when i get low power steer fluid it will warn me... but i wasnt concerned cause my light never turned on anyways haha but i cant remmeber exactly which one etc... just wondering if i can remove the whole lot of both of these and not be affected

Its your HICAS Computer / ECU... Well one of them.

Basicaly You have 2 ECU's. One at the front, behinde the left hand side pasenger kick pannel.

Two, in the boot where you have pictured.

Guess there is no harm in removing it since you have already removed the HICAS System.

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)

The left hand module is your abs computer. In a gtr or gts4 it also doubles as the 4wd computer, ie both in the one module, but in yours just abs.

The right hand side one is the hicas and speed sensitive power steering module.

If there was a round one in betwwen the two, that would have been the audio amplifier, but it looks like you don't have that one from your pics.

The engine ecu lives in behind the panel to the left of the front passengere's feet. The automatic ecu lives in behind the panel to the right of the driver's feet.

Edited by heller44
  • 2 weeks later...

shit aye... so i guess if i remove either or ill lose my speed sensitive steering and abs... ill give it a shot and see how she drives... see if abs still works

  • 10 months later...

Hey i know this thread is getting old but i was wondering if you ended up removing the ecu/s and if so wat happened.

Did you lose the ABS? Im asking because i actually want to remove ABS but taking the fuse out doesnt work apparently so i was wondering if i can just unplug the left ecu...? Will this have any unwanted sideaffects?

Or does anyone know any other way of disabling it? Can i wire a switch into the ground wire or something?

  • 2 weeks later...
hey

just wondering if anyone knows what these are... They are in my 1989 R32 GTS-T four door. It did have an air purifier on the rear parcel shelf but i have removed it cause it was broken/couldnt figure it out. And im not sure if they are to do with that.. i doubt it though. They have ALOT of wires going into it... I want to fit a sub box standing up and it just doesnt clear these 2 boxes... any idea what they are for...

wtf! lol , its like your ecu is aftermarket and its in the boot lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...