Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I heard the the straight 6 is smoother running, and produces more low torque in the rev range than V6's...

I don't really know :S

What's better a V6 or a straight 6 and why?

Ok this may not be the most educated answer ever..but i would believe it depends on the actual motor...like i'm sure an RB26 would run differently to like an commonwhore motor

inline 6 and flat 6 engines are intrinsically balanced, so they run very smoothly. every other type of engine (until you get to 12 cylinders) is not balanced. balance shafts are installed next to the crank which offset this vibration but you can never do the job perfectly.

The torque curve has more to do with the other design aspects of the motor. You can design an inline-6 to have massive low-end torque (most serious diesel engines are inline-6).

after owning a RB25DET, and a 6A13TT, i'd say the straight 6 makes a better note, but the V6 is better in every other way.

the V6 has plenty of torque all through the range

That's not really a fair comparison, the Galant engine is a twin turbo which gives you more flexibility in how you develop boost (and by relation, torque). Also, Galants are rally cars.. where midrange torque is your bread and butter. Skylines are circuit cars, and it's all about top end on a circuit.

V6's have a much shorter crank, which should add to strength i think, but obviously theres alot of other factors which contribute to that too

V6's are also more compact, so they can fit into smaller cars, and theres some reason that they are better for emissions apparently.

Edited by VB-

generally inline 6s are cantered over to one side to allow better clearance and lower COG.

just FYI

Straight six is "simpler" too in that you don't need two sets of heads, etc (let's disregard VW's 15deg V6 for the timebeing as it's a cheater broken straight six anyway... lol)

They're different configurations so you're wasting your time seeing which is 'better'. They've both been around for many decades so obviously they both work effectively.

I like the I6 better for its smoothness, but i wouldn't knock a V6 based on that reason. Being behind an RB or a VQ engine, they both sound and rev great and both are torquey.

The torque curve has more to do with the other design aspects of the motor. You can design an inline-6 to have massive low-end torque (most serious diesel engines are inline-6).

Skylines are circuit cars, and it's all about top end on a circuit.

You can design an engine to do anything you want. The parameters between all engine components functions, cylinder head capability, use of forced induction, displacement, gear ratios, fuel maps etc. are so wide that a 4 cylinder can be built to outdo an I6. It depends on the engineering requirements.

And no, Skylines are road cars.

Depending on the circuit of course, midrange and torque are usually more important than top end. Torque pulls you through corners, and is what allows easier overtaking. What's 10,000RPM going to achieve over usable torque? Nothing, because top end RPM's are a measure of the engine's speed, not the maximum power available to pull you through a hairpin.

V6's have a much shorter crank, which should add to strength i think, but obviously theres alot of other factors which contribute to that too

How many RB cranks break?

generally inline 6s are cantered over to one side to allow better clearance and lower COG.

just FYI

Straight six is "simpler" too in that you don't need two sets of heads, etc (let's disregard VW's 15deg V6 for the timebeing as it's a cheater broken straight six anyway... lol)

Spot on. The COG is even better on a flat-6.

Yes, a V6 is more complex (in the number of parts anyway).

A v6 can produce more power then a strait 6 when modefied but the the strait 6 can hold power better then the v6 Example: Strait6 500hp V6 500hp the v6 would crack faster then the strait 6 would under havy driving.

They can both produce big power. No, they won't just crack because of their piston configuration. Detonation or an oil failure would be more likely to kill the engine rather than its shape. A conrod might crack from excessive heat/force, but that can happen on any overpowered engine.

But in saying that I6's are used more commonly for large industrial machinery. It's better balance, hence reduced vibration, makes it more suited to large power (esp. torque) applications. Think of trucks used for mining, carring thousands of tonnes of cargo. A V6's inherent configuration would be unsuitable in this regard.

To illustrate, think of a TOLL truck's 80L or 90L I6 engine used to ship packages interstate. The vibrations we feel in 2.6L engines are amplified greatly in a 90L engine. It's 34.5 times greater displacement, so imagine 34.5 times more vibration coming from your engine bay.

Then imagine you have a V6 in the same situation :P

Edited by R338OY

i don't really know which is better but here's some pics:

vg30dett in Z32:

CowraKarl.jpg

RB26 in Z32:

RB26Z.JPG

rb engine is longer, the radiator was moved further forward so there's going to be more weight further forward, not sure about the weight difference between vg30 and rb26 either. but much more room to work :D

A v6 can produce more power then a strait 6 when modefied but the the strait 6 can hold power better then the v6 Example: Strait6 500hp V6 500hp the v6 would crack faster then the strait 6 would under havy driving.

Great. Thanks for that gem of knowledge.

And no, Skylines are road cars.

The "GT" designation stands for "Gran Turismo" or "Grand Touring". Skylines were built as enduro racers, not dropping down to the shops to get some milk. A Hyundai Excel is a road car.

What's 10,000RPM going to achieve over usable torque?

What's usable torque going to achieve if you have to change up a gear at 3,000RPM? When was the last time you were out-dragged by a bus? Why do you think F1 cars rev to the sky rather than rely on bottom end torque?

It's all down to gearing. It's better to make torque at high RPM because you can be in a lower gear, and the effective torque at the wheels is better.

To illustrate, think of a TOLL truck's 80L or 90L I6 engine used to ship packages interstate. The vibrations we feel in 2.6L engines are amplified greatly in a 90L engine. It's 34.5 times greater displacement, so imagine 34.5 times more vibration coming from your engine bay.

90L engine? hahahaha.. you're kidding right. I think you mean 9.0L. Most prime movers use turbo diesels around the 9.0L mark (eg Volvo FM-9 prime mover is 9.4L turbo diesel). Don't pull figures out of your arse.

I think I'm done in this thread.

You cant really say which one is "better"

V6 is more compact, but is more complicated (ie complex intake, double the cams)

Straight 6 is simpler but has a longer crank, so more load on the end furthest from the flywheel but is smoother and has some natural balance.

Its not the configuration of the cylinders that makes or breaks an engine it is how it is designed. Bore, stroke, compression ratio, head configuration etc has a far greater affect on an engine than whether its a V or straight.

There are examples of good and bad I6 and V6 engines

And to Kinks,

the reason F1 cars rev to 18k+rpm is that they are limited to a very small capacity. Being as Kw = (Nm x rpm)/9550, for these little (ie. not very torquey) engines to make the power levels that they do, they need to rev like crazy and be designed to make what little torque they can at those high revs.

And you are right, it is all down to gearing, but that same principle applys to low revving cars aswell, just look at the Audi diesle Le Mans race car, it wont even pull 5,000rpm, but thanks to clever gearing the thing is increadibly fast. But this is all off topic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...