Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, guys i'm thinking about upgrading my front brakes to brembos, what do you guys think? is it a good idea? i would rather over brake then under brake. ive got a few question that i have

1) how easy will it be to get the brembos on?

2) what will need to be changed?

3) and they should fit under the normal R33 gtr wheels right?

4) anything i need to know that i dont know?

any input would be great. thank you guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220853-r33-brembos-on-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

few more things i should add i'm running a R33 turbo so should be at about 190rwkw, and i'm also getting these for 825 AUD, is that a good price? for just the fronts with DS2500 pads, and the standard discs. they off a 1997 gtr.

any advice would be good guys.

thanks

1. Should be a direct bolt on fit (34 gtr use diff size bolt, 32/33 are the same)

2. The caliper, disk and i would also put on ADR braided lines

3. Dont see why not as that is how they came from factorie.

4. I would also change the brake fluid and if it were me the master cylnder to a gtr as it is larger or inspect your one and if need be change the seals.

1. Should be a direct bolt on fit (34 gtr use diff size bolt, 32/33 are the same)

GTST's are not the same, the bolts to the hub are a different diameter for a start.

2. The caliper, disk and i would also put on ADR braided lines

What about the 280 mm rotors versus 324 mm rotors?

You need calliper adaptors (try UAS), rotors and brake lines.

Changing the fronts only is not a good idea, I would do the rears at the same time.

Personally I think the Brembos are overrated and not good value for money. They are hardly any better than the standard Sumitomo/Nissan 4 spot fronts and 2 spot rears.

Cheers

Gary

If you want to run an R33 or R32 Brembo caliper on your R32 GTSt then they are almost a bolt on affair. You need to use the GTR rotor (324mm) which once the caliper is off requires you to cut off the dust guard and then simply slide on, easy.

Next you will find that the bolt whilst the same diameter is a different pitch . So the bolt will easily go through the hubm, you just need to either buy a new bolt (good idea) or make sure you GTR calipers come with the bolts as well. Then its a matter of bolting up the lines (striaght fit) install pads and bleed brakes.

If you use R32 or R33 calipers and rotors then its as near to a bolt on job as you get with cars. If you have an R34 simply grab R34 GTR calipers which are cheaper as there doesnt seem to be the demand as there arent that many R34 owners compared to R32/33 owners chasing them.

Shameless plug, if you want to run Brembos then i have some F40 calipers that run the GTR rotor for sale, better more flexible setup with near new rotors and better caliper for the same asking price as used GTR gear :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
    • They have said food will be limited. Mainly meat pies and sausage rolls from memory. But they have a coffee van!
×
×
  • Create New...