Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

just bought my rb30e on the weekend and am almost certain its a series two block however there are a few little things that are warrying me. i have attached some photos so those in the now can hopefully put my mind at ease..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a272/danp_87/side1.jpg

as you can see in this photo it has 2 of the 3 holes you would think it should have

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a272/danp_87/front.gif

and in this photo it appears to have the flat area above the water pump for the second tensioner location.

i havent pulled too much of it yet cos if it is the wrong motor it can go back in the quokka next week.

also on a totally unrelted thing. the 26 head has the same stud pattern as the 30 block just a thicker stud yeh??

thanks for all the help

dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/
Share on other sites

i cant see and oil drain

looks like a series one to me

every n/a block that i've seen that has the provisions for the turbo oil and coolant feed didnt have the oil drain

i wouldnt bet my left nut on it, but i would say its more than likely a series 2

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3903256
Share on other sites

yeah its a series one, from memory they had a bung in the side of the sump dont quote me on it,

however it isnt hard to get it put in , the flat round surface at the bottom of the block below where the word nissan is is where you can drill and tap a hole for a 3/4 inch fitting,

while your at it you could have a T fitting put in there so you can have a drain back for a catch can in the future...just thinking ahead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3904036
Share on other sites

ok im in doubt now, it may be a series one. can you get a better pic of where the oil drain is (if you know) or just a better pic of that same side of the block

^oil return is in the block, its that black area just to the bottom left of the '67S'. for the thread starter, this is what i wanted the pic of, does it have a big square in the midle of it like for a ratchet to fit into?

Edited by VB-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3904540
Share on other sites

thats why i am in some doubt. it has two out of the three holes and yes its missing the oil drain hole. however above the water pump it does have the flat section to bolt the tensioner to that a series 1 does not. that is the part i am more concerned about. drilling and tapping the oil drain hole isnt so much of an issue. its having the area for the tensioner to sit on that i am more concerned about

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3905352
Share on other sites

I didn't think that the s1 and s2 were any different above the water pump.

ps. definately series one engine............

I have a s2 in the shed and it has the oil drain in the block ready to go.

its mentioned alot in the major sticky. thats why i was/am concerned.

but i looked at the pdf and did some quick measurements and will have a spot for the tensioner so have started to pull her apart. now awaiting available 26 head.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3907989
Share on other sites

Rb30 e series one and series two.

the only difference i have ever seen(ive owned 10 vl commodores 4 skylines and a patrol) is the drain back for the turbo as described above.

the fact that they are 3 litre blocks mean they ALL HAVE THE FLAT SURFACE ABOVE THE WATERPUMP!.

the water feed and return lines actually travell around the back of the block from the intake side of the engine

similar to that of the rb20det engines

the ports for these are located near the rear heater hose as it exits the block and also the rear of the thermostat housing on the series two or from the block on the series one.

post-50030-1212282911_thumb.jpg

post-50030-1212282952_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3909709
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...