Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

just bought my rb30e on the weekend and am almost certain its a series two block however there are a few little things that are warrying me. i have attached some photos so those in the now can hopefully put my mind at ease..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a272/danp_87/side1.jpg

as you can see in this photo it has 2 of the 3 holes you would think it should have

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a272/danp_87/front.gif

and in this photo it appears to have the flat area above the water pump for the second tensioner location.

i havent pulled too much of it yet cos if it is the wrong motor it can go back in the quokka next week.

also on a totally unrelted thing. the 26 head has the same stud pattern as the 30 block just a thicker stud yeh??

thanks for all the help

dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/
Share on other sites

i cant see and oil drain

looks like a series one to me

every n/a block that i've seen that has the provisions for the turbo oil and coolant feed didnt have the oil drain

i wouldnt bet my left nut on it, but i would say its more than likely a series 2

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3903256
Share on other sites

yeah its a series one, from memory they had a bung in the side of the sump dont quote me on it,

however it isnt hard to get it put in , the flat round surface at the bottom of the block below where the word nissan is is where you can drill and tap a hole for a 3/4 inch fitting,

while your at it you could have a T fitting put in there so you can have a drain back for a catch can in the future...just thinking ahead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3904036
Share on other sites

ok im in doubt now, it may be a series one. can you get a better pic of where the oil drain is (if you know) or just a better pic of that same side of the block

^oil return is in the block, its that black area just to the bottom left of the '67S'. for the thread starter, this is what i wanted the pic of, does it have a big square in the midle of it like for a ratchet to fit into?

Edited by VB-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3904540
Share on other sites

thats why i am in some doubt. it has two out of the three holes and yes its missing the oil drain hole. however above the water pump it does have the flat section to bolt the tensioner to that a series 1 does not. that is the part i am more concerned about. drilling and tapping the oil drain hole isnt so much of an issue. its having the area for the tensioner to sit on that i am more concerned about

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3905352
Share on other sites

I didn't think that the s1 and s2 were any different above the water pump.

ps. definately series one engine............

I have a s2 in the shed and it has the oil drain in the block ready to go.

its mentioned alot in the major sticky. thats why i was/am concerned.

but i looked at the pdf and did some quick measurements and will have a spot for the tensioner so have started to pull her apart. now awaiting available 26 head.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3907989
Share on other sites

Rb30 e series one and series two.

the only difference i have ever seen(ive owned 10 vl commodores 4 skylines and a patrol) is the drain back for the turbo as described above.

the fact that they are 3 litre blocks mean they ALL HAVE THE FLAT SURFACE ABOVE THE WATERPUMP!.

the water feed and return lines actually travell around the back of the block from the intake side of the engine

similar to that of the rb20det engines

the ports for these are located near the rear heater hose as it exits the block and also the rear of the thermostat housing on the series two or from the block on the series one.

post-50030-1212282911_thumb.jpg

post-50030-1212282952_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221130-rb30e/#findComment-3909709
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...