Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heyas

I currently have 220kw on a stock gtr box which has a nasty synchro problem, (crunches 2nd, 3rd and 4th, very hard to shift into 1st at low motion). It had the shockproof oil in it when bought, whether that was the cause of the sync issue or an attempt to dampen the effect, I don't know. I only run mineral oil/semi synthetics in my boxes personally, not a fan of smurf blood.

I mainly street the car. I occasionally launch it and I do a little bit of drag racing too, but not much. Most of the time I'm just doing the usual driving, but I do like to have the gearbox change gears as quickly as possible (bear in mind that I have to be really gentle nowdays so I dont grind so much..).

Thing is, I'm gonna get new turbos and some other minor mods to try n get the engine to give me 300kw. Now, with that sort of power would the stock gearbox gears/synchros handle that enough? Depending on the answer to that, do I get a 2nd hand box, or just get my existing box's synchros/gears changed? I'm not aiming for anything super hardcore, but I don't want to spend any unnecessary cash...

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! :)

-D

Edited by Dohmar

I'm running around with a 2nd hand R32 GTR gearbox in my car that has over 370rwkws and has run and won Dutton rallies which have over 70 lauches along with circuit work and 800m drags over 3 days and its never missed a beat.

Having said that when I 1st got my car I broke 2 gearboxes in the 1st 6 months I had it before I learned to drive.

Getrag from a r34 GTR ftw!!

close ratio, nice and strong, synchro and 6 speed!!!

i think with whatever diff ratio i have it works out quiet nice, for street driving, track days and for the launch!

tho 60' times suffer a little but i'm not into drag racing at all.

I'm running around with a 2nd hand R32 GTR gearbox in my car that has over 370rwkws and has run and won Dutton rallies which have over 70 lauches along with circuit work and 800m drags over 3 days and its never missed a beat.

Having said that when I 1st got my car I broke 2 gearboxes in the 1st 6 months I had it before I learned to drive.

Thats pretty reassuring.... I think I'll stick with the 32 box, the 6 speed would be nice but I'm trying to keep it as inexpensive as possible.

So I'll probably get my current box reconditioned with new synchros, might cost me more than a straight 2nd hand box but at least I'll know its good for a while... that is unless someone out there is selling a 5 speed which they know is in good nick :P

thanks for your help guys... appreciate it!

-D

Getrag from a r34 GTR ftw!!

close ratio, nice and strong, synchro and 6 speed!!!

i think with whatever diff ratio i have it works out quiet nice, for street driving, track days and for the launch!

tho 60' times suffer a little but i'm not into drag racing at all.

I'm not so sure about that. it's a nice street box, but lots of serious 34 GTRs I know of switch back to the 33/32 type boxes for any track or drag use.

edit: see snowmans post above...

I'm not so sure about that. it's a nice street box, but lots of serious 34 GTRs I know of switch back to the 33/32 type boxes for any track or drag use.

edit: see snowmans post above...

Yerrp this is true, tho there are some big hp 34's that still run the box too.

tho then again mines got nismo goodies inside it.

Series 3.5 R33 GTR boxes have better synchro's.

3200 from just jap

would like to know more dude, i know nowt about about synchros but thats where my problem lies atm.... theyre 18 yrs old, shagged and i need a good shift up to 300 kw....

-D

Yerrp this is true, tho there are some big hp 34's that still run the box too.

tho then again mines got nismo goodies inside it.

the 'nismo goodies' is just an upgraded input shaft. the stock getrag shaft has been known to twist especially when you have decent power and a hard core clutch. so nismo when they desinged a clutch kit added an upgraded input shaft to it. you get the input shaft when you buy a nismo 34 GTR clutch. but it doesn't do anything for the strength of the gears or the ratios, or the synchros. it's just one short little shaft that send power into the front of the box that is changed over. I would say whoever was using the box before you was using a nismo clutch with it hence the reason it had the input shaft in there from the clutch kit. :D

Save yourself a bucketload of money and drop in a second hand GTR box.

GTR boxes should not be rooted with only 220kw.. Rb20 boxes shit themselfs and do in bearings and strip gears at that power, not GTR boxes

Perhaps previous owener just abused it?

How do you drive it? Heal and toe? Double clutch?

thats my 2c

Edited by GTS4WD
Save yourself a bucketload of money and drop in a second hand GTR box.

GTR boxes should not be rooted with only 220kw.. Rb20 boxes shit themselfs and do in bearings and strip gears at that power, not GTR boxes

Perhaps previous owener just abused it?

How do you drive it? Heal and toe? Double clutch?

thats my 2c

I do a little bit of heel/toe when going around a corner but really not much. I just drive around the city and try not to draw attention to myself. I've never double clutched (dont know anything about it). The previous owner did abuse the shite out of the box which is why they had the redline shockproof gunk in it. Its mainly the synchros which are rooted, the gears themselves feel really good. Just shifting into gear after acceleration can cause the grind... if I let the engine rev down to 3-4 it usually slips in OK but anything above 4k is grind city... Im mainly just curious cause the extra power I want to draw later on when I get turbos replaced. I don't think I need the OSG kit at all, and if the stock GTR boxes are as ballsy as their reputation leads me to believe, then I should be ok. Bear in mind its an 18 yr old gearbox which has undoubtably been thrashed out by its previous owner... thats the way I look at it at least. So if I can get a decent 2nd hand box I should be ok.... otherwise its synchro+thrust bearing replacement (which is probably more expensive?)

Not too sure really...

-D

A lot to do with the clutch. Get a solid centre POS clutch that will break your gearbox, get a cushion center clutch that wont send shocks through the gearbox and its much harder to break.

R33 GTR Series 3 gearboxes have a bit stronger syncros. You can buy them brand new from justjap or nissan for about 3.2k. Or stick a 2nd hand 32/33 GTR box in for a grand or so.

A lot to do with the clutch. Get a solid centre POS clutch that will break your gearbox, get a cushion center clutch that wont send shocks through the gearbox and its much harder to break.

R33 GTR Series 3 gearboxes have a bit stronger syncros. You can buy them brand new from justjap or nissan for about 3.2k. Or stick a 2nd hand 32/33 GTR box in for a grand or so.

Yeah I got a 6puk Jim Berry clutch on its way for when I do fit the replacement box... with my old box, would it be worth selling as a shagged box to someone or getting it fixed incase I stuff up the replacement? Going to go with a stock 32 box, cant really afford 3.2k

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...