Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its just owning a skyline....

I clean mine every time i take it out for a drive.. u can have as much wax as u like still wont work.

:laugh:

Clean it everytime you go for a drive? I think its safe to say your car is puffing black smoke like a mother f**ker to get that. I dont get any black on my rear bar with my car. I havent cleaned it in over a month and the rear bar is still clean lol

if std ecu

- check CAT

- check 02 sensors

- get a piggyback device to tune the car

if stand alone ecu

- check CAT

- check 02 feedback is supported/enabled

- check 02 sensors

- check AFR's (cruise, half throttle, wide open throttle)

Clean it everytime you go for a drive? I think its safe to say your car is puffing black smoke like a mother f**ker to get that. I dont get any black on my rear bar with my car. I havent cleaned it in over a month and the rear bar is still clean lol

powahhhhhhhhhh

if std ecu

- check CAT

- check 02 sensors

- get a piggyback device to tune the car

if stand alone ecu

- check CAT

- check 02 feedback is supported/enabled

- check 02 sensors

- check AFR's (cruise, half throttle, wide open throttle)

in addition if you have access to Nissan Consult or datascan you can check for error codes. things like coolant temp sensor or detonation sensor circuit errors can put the car into safety mode which means more fuel, retarded timing.

how many km's are you getting to a tank of petrol if you drive normally?

probly about 400-500 driving normaly

thats awesome economy man.

If i got anywhere near that i would be a happy camper...

Id say its just the exhaust and a normal skyline thing... Most of them do it and you just need to keep on top of keeping it clean...

If it gets real bad rub it with a clay bar, give it a quick buff with a polish and throw a wax over the top...

wont last foreva but might make it easier to get it off for a bit :blink:

good luck.

last week i did 380 befor i went to fill up and i still had quarter of a tank left, but i drove normally last week no realy fast take of or pushing the peddle hard as i cant do that at the moment, car loses power quickly if i push it hard thing its afm or fuel pump, i find out sat or sun for my mechanic to fix it should be fun lolz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...