Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

in all reality its which ever one you like more than the other.

plus look at which one is looked after better, lower kms.

in saying that id probably prefer the 33 over the 34..id only ever buy a 34 if it was gtr but thats just my opinion chose which one you like the most.

NA R34 > NA R33

newer, more reliable, interior is moderately upgraded etc. etc.

it's all the little things that count... you won't regret it

never owned an NA Skyline in my life but i love the look of the R34, i own a GT-T and used to tell myself i wouldn't buy an R34 unless it was a GTR...

reality is, not everybody can afford it... go the R34, a lot newer and classier looking

my2c

Andrew :P

R34 without a doubt! Hands down!

5 stud

Less km's

VVL

Nicer interior

Newer

*bling* factor

But one question?.. why would you consider a "down grade"? The price difrence is quite large.. would the entra money go on mods?.. If so.. Id go a 33! Slap some coilovers, wheels, cams, zorst..

my 2 cent

NA 34 17 - 18

NA s2 16

1 grand extra just for the convinience of a new model.

Im leaning towards the R34 now, my dad's starting to brainwash me aswell haha.

MR_XTC

go the r34 i own one they are great, and if i wanted a second car id go the r32 i still love the shape.

just a quick question where are you from cause those prices are quite high i can get a turbo r34 for that price. i picked up mine for 13,000 all up. or are you just giving a rough quote.

i'd go for an R34... however like cris said can the money go to supporting mods if your not too fussed about looks?

the R33 is actually more compatible to other parts than the R34. i.e. R34GTR seats will not fit in an R34 GTT (which i am 99% sure is the same as the R34 GT) - weird huh?

scotty014 im in NSW dude, well i saw one for 17. Im really keen on getting it just waiting for the funds !! :thumbsup:

and EUG, im looking at getting a R34 or R33, working on the cosmetics and audio departments, and slight mods to the engine itself, then heavy engine mods will be undertaken once i get my full licence, seeing as i am disqualified at the moment.

I get my licence back in March, and till that time i will just be running the car in the area and cosmetics, and im into the R34 now because it will be less of a headache, but seeing as they are not compatible with much R34 interior parts, that doesnt phase me as much. Because the main aspect im looking at is the engine compatibility of the 25GT and GTR.

One more thing, is the 25GT AWD ? and will this cause loss in power ?

Is there a way to change it to RWD only ? cause' ive heard a few people talking about a fuse which you take out to make it RWD and pop it back in to make it AWD, is this true? and if so i'll be doing it at my own discretion, will it be bad for the car in the long / short term ?

MR_XTC

Edited by MR_XTC
One more thing, is the 25GT AWD ? and will this cause loss in power ?

Is there a way to change it to RWD only ? cause' ive heard a few people talking about a fuse which you take out to make it RWD and pop it back in to make it AWD, is this true? and if so i'll be doing it at my own discretion, will it be bad for the car in the long / short term ?

MR_XTC

If your not fussed about HEAPS of mods.. then go a 34 hands down without a shadow of a doubt! There are TOO many benefits going a 34 over a 33.

25GT AWD is an R34 GTS4.. 25GT is simply an NA RWD R34. NA GTS4's have an RB25DE VVL with the ATTESSA (4wd) system like the GTR has.

"loose" power.. not exactly.. because R34's run a constant 5% of power to the front wheels.. a dyno read wont show you have as much power as a straight RWD car because 5% of the power is being sent to the Front wheels

The "fuse" you speak of is only in R32's.. where you can disengauge the ATTESSA (4wd) system by simply removing a fuse.. For R33's and 4's you need to remove the front prop shaft from the frnsfer case to the front diff.. No.. this will not be bad for it.

Hope this answeres your questions

Edited by GTS4WD

Cheers man, cause i had some doubts about the AWD aspect to it.

Im lovin' the sound of this !!

Im gonna' go check out a 34 in Eastgarden's tomorrow, hopefully turns out to be good, and will hopefully get it by the end of the month!!

I really like the R34 now, even though a 34 was what i was looking for, but after a lil' brainwashing from dad, im gonna go for a 34.

SCOTTY get back to me about where to get cheap 34's lol, cause all i can see are price ranges of 16 - 19

MR_XTC

r33s are better

34's are ugly and more expensive

buy my car, youll save money and can spend it on making it better :banana:

lol says the guy with a 33 haha....

at the end of the day its your choice, take both of them for a drive and see which one you prefer. The rb25 is as tough as nails in both models so i doubt you'll run into any troubles with either the r33 or r34 mechanically (unless it was severly abused).

I personally perfer the 34, and because of that i drive one, it all depends on what tickels your fancy. imo the r32 is a great shape and i thought with the r33 they lost a bit of the aggressiveness by having a "smoother" looking car, but with the 34 its more inline of the r32 with a more "square" shape. The 34 has more power, is definately nicer inside and the exterior is upto the individual but for the extra 2-3k you would be crazy to get a r33 over a 34 (na wise).

:)

Edited by R34GTFOUR
NA R34 > NA R33

newer, more reliable, interior is moderately upgraded etc. etc.

it's all the little things that count... you won't regret it

never owned an NA Skyline in my life but i love the look of the R34, i own a GT-T and used to tell myself i wouldn't buy an R34 unless it was a GTR...

reality is, not everybody can afford it... go the R34, a lot newer and classier looking

my2c

Andrew :)

Yeah i used to have the same mind, if i was to get an R34, then it had to be a GTR. But after reading some of the forum posts there are just more to it with a GTR than meets the eye such as cost of insurance, maintenance and paranoia (if somebody scratches the car). I didn't have enough cash so i bought a GTT.

IMHO, i'd get a R34, there are less of them on the road, they look better than a R33, slightly newer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...