Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

S2000 FTW...

or yes Type-R

then when the P Plater thing you NSW guys have is over, get a GTST or GT-T then, maybe even a GTR depending on however funds permit...

i was heaps impatient importing my GT-T... if i waited another month or two i reckon i could have paid the same amount and got a heaps better one...

my2c anyway, it's only worth 2c lol

Did we not just have a thread on this?

Did we not reach a decision in the last thread?

Are the 2 34's not the same?

Quick rundown.

34 is better than 33.

NA Supra is too Heavy to be a solid NA (In my opinion)

Autech S15 is fat too expensive and the last thing you want to do at a young age is bury urself in debit

Buy an NA S13, 1.8L MX5, Type R instead.

Even though a Supra is "too heavy", NA Supras will always own an NA Skyline lol.... (learnt from experience....)

Edited by Charles89

its like sex on the beach :)

IMO, i dont like NA supra's, to chunky looking.

Go for a R33 and R34, your already at our forums, so you might aswell *IMPULSE buy* HAHA, but nah man, do whatchu want we'll only give you advice, the deision is still upto u.

MRXTCZ

hah i was going to look at a type R but my bro would absolutely kill me he wanted to buy one for so long, ended up with a accord euro.. in about 2 months i should be able to get my loan and then ill be a part of the fray.

Been going through all the posts and yeh R34 just wins ova the 33

also alotta wogs just ruin the 33's a bit for me and being Italian i gotta break away from the whole woggishness 20 inch chromies = gay

Thanks guys just wanted some reassurance on my decision.. wish me luck!

Edited by Aggroman

OMG Thank god for this thread. just the thread i was looking for.

Anways. Hi all. I'm new to this forum. basically my story is that i've been saving hard for 6 months now and i've got money from savings to buy either a N/A R34 or an Autech S15. But the problem is that i seriously DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO GET! I've just been swinging for months now deciding on which car to get. To be honest, im just looking for a powerful N/A car which can give some punch. looking at the specs and power to weight ratio online. it seems the Autech S15 is more powerful. after seeing what cuff3m posted earlier, i'm leaning towards the Autech S15. I've actually never had the chance to test drive both cars so i don't know how good they are. Could you guys please give me some suggestions, Im very confused. :D

Thanks, Mingy.

BIASED opinion,

R34, love it, spacey and damn smooth but powerful ride.

As ive said before, i would go for a NA S15, only time i would go for a S15 is if its a SPECR.

Seen too many s15's around, not many NA 34's, atleast in mah hood :blink:.

MRXTCZ

OMG Thank god for this thread. just the thread i was looking for.

Anways. Hi all. I'm new to this forum. basically my story is that i've been saving hard for 6 months now and i've got money from savings to buy either a N/A R34 or an Autech S15. But the problem is that i seriously DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO GET! I've just been swinging for months now deciding on which car to get. To be honest, im just looking for a powerful N/A car which can give some punch. looking at the specs and power to weight ratio online. it seems the Autech S15 is more powerful. after seeing what cuff3m posted earlier, i'm leaning towards the Autech S15. I've actually never had the chance to test drive both cars so i don't know how good they are. Could you guys please give me some suggestions, Im very confused. :P

Thanks, Mingy.

I've test driven both.

In short, the Autech S15 is a superior car, but I couldn't justify paying the cost of a Spec R for a naturally aspirated variant.

The Skyline is a physically bigger car. Yes, I know it is obvious, but it becomes apparent when you drive it.

For what its worth, I've owned an S13 Onevia with an S14 SR20DE swap, and also a S13 Silvia Ks CA18DET, so I'm used to cars in the power range of an Autech or Skyline.

I've test driven both.

In short, the Autech S15 is a superior car, but I couldn't justify paying the cost of a Spec R for a naturally aspirated variant.

The Skyline is a physically bigger car. Yes, I know it is obvious, but it becomes apparent when you drive it.

For what its worth, I've owned an S13 Onevia with an S14 SR20DE swap, and also a S13 Silvia Ks CA18DET, so I'm used to cars in the power range of an Autech or Skyline.

Thanks for the reply. yeah i see what your saying. the only reason why im getting a n/a is because for obvious reasons, stuck on Ps.

i was leaning towards the n/a r34 but found out that its heavy thus power to weight isn't that great. i heard that the n/a 34s is a petrol eater & not far off from the turbo version (someone correct me if im wrong?). so i guess i'm taking the autech......... :thumbsup:

if you drive normally on an N/a and a turbo

the turbo will definitely consume less petrol (from experience)

but... wehn u begin to hit boost... dont those vtec just happen to be next to you?

haha n/a are actually ok, im getting around ... 10L --> but i can tell my car running a bit rich.

but i drive like a grandma. nothing over 2500 rpm hahahhah

see ya lads!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...