Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 0.68 would be "snappier" as it runs into boost, with an earlier/faster rate of acceleration of the rotating assembly. The 0.87 may result in too slow a rate of spool but certainly give the feel of making lots of power higher up.

Bit of a juggling act to get sufficient bottom end response and torque from the smaller cubic capacity engine, but allow sufficient mass flow through the turbine housing to not choke things higher up as revs and power output rise.

Dependent on what other mechanical modifications are made (manifolding, porting, cams), the 0.68 might prove to be the better match to give area under the curve. Focus on the torque curve.

Edited by Dale FZ1

My opinions only , take them or leave them .

To me a GT3037 seems like a lot of turbo for a 2L six , some even think they are a bit ambitious on an RB25DET .

If I had to run a 3037 GT Pro on an RB20 based engine I would opt for the smaller or 0.68 A/R turbine housing .

Depending on how much power you realistically expect to make maybe a HKS GT-RS would be a better all rounder in a street car - definately cheaper and easier to fit .

A turbo car doesn't have to break into wild wheelspin as soon as it comes on boost , I reckon that's more an issue of the transition of no boost to too much boost over a narrow engine rev band . If you can get it to make adequate boost initially and ramp up a bit with engine revs you may find the lack of traction less of a problem .

A .

sry disco but im aiming for 400rwhp ive got an apexi ax53b70 in there atm and thats around the same as the gt2535 so an upgrade to the gt-rs is not worth the money imo an rb20 is going to b laggy no matter what so i think im guna go 4 the .87 will post dyno results when car is done cheers boys

Edited by Justa32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...